Day 16 - Buenos Aires, 'Recoleta' Free Walking Tour, Bellas Artes Art Gallery, & Tango!

Our third day in Buenos Aires and we begin to get a good feel for the city. Local restaurants, cafes, and shops become familiar as we wander the streets with savoir faire. Today we join another walking tour, exploring the other ‘down town’ areas of BA. Fernando is our tour guide, a lawyer, who provides a more light-hearted, jovial tour than the previous night (which was very historical and rather morose). Both were excellent tours providing insights on to different facets of this beautiful city. Fernando, much like Martin, points out architectural oddities, the juxtaposition of western and eastern influences, famous statues, and unique districts along the way. Interestingly, Buenos Aires has the 4^th largest community of Jewish peoples in the world, the second religion of the city behind Christianity.

We wander through lush parks, learning of this historical person or that – often with a theme surrounding the shaping of Argentina. Famous throughout Argentina (Chile, Bolivia, and Peru as well) is the figure of San Martin – a military leader who helped defeat the Spanish and grant autonomy to Argentina. Often depicted on horseback, pointing to the West – toward the Andes – mimicking his valiant crossing of the Andes with 5,000 men - in only 16 days, defeating the Spanish overlords from these 4 respective countries. In anyone one of these countries (and each city within) you will undoubtedly find a road San martin, a plaza San Martin, a San Martin shopping centre etc…

Our tour ends in the famous Recoleta Cemetery, which is renowned for it’s large, opulent mausoleums of the aristocracy from Argentina – all built in jagged streets, imitating a small unique city of the dead. Saying goodbye to Fernando, we headed to the National Art Museum – which housed numerous painting from many of the greats – Van Gogh, Monet, Manet, Pollock… A true pleasure to visit.

After a quick dinner with a bottle of local vino – we head to our evening Tango show. Located in the famous Café Tortoni – we’re seated in a dusky subterranean, brick theatre – imitating the streets of yester-Buenos Aires. Sipping on champagne – we’re enthralled by the rhythmic gyrating bodies entwined on stage, dancing to slow-then fast-then slow tango songs. A lone performer took the stage – swinging long ropes with wooden balls on the ends. The dancer spun and smacked the instruments on the ground – choreographing a song and tap dance to his fast paced twirling. The show ended with a lone singer on stage – belting out some powerful melody that was completely lost on us verbally – but was none the less a beautiful performance. We highly enjoyed our show – and walked back to our hotel thoroughly satisfied in today’s adventures.

Day 15 - Buenos Aires, Evening Free Walking Tour

What is with cities in South America? Our room, on the 5^th floor, felt very secluded and quiet. That was until cars entered and/or exited the parking garage across from the hotel – triggering a flashing light (luckily we couldn’t see it) and a loud siren – presumably to warn other cars and passengers about the emerging vehicle. A good theory, in principle, however, this garage (and seemingly all of them throughout the city) was constantly busy – meaning that darn siren was going off every 10 minutes every hour of the day and night. Eventually your mind drowns it out, getting used to the shrill cry – however, the first night we weren’t sure whether to evacuate the building or what to do, as it sounded exactly like a fire alarm.

Anyway. 

We awake to a small continental breakfast – with terrible, burnt coffee – and make our way to the meeting point for our walking tour. The tour, Buenos Aires Free Walking Tours, was led by a well-informed, well-spoken sociologist named Martin. The tour began at the Congresso Nacional and meandered through the city – highlighting key elements from Buenos Aires’s rise and fall from grace. A very beautiful city, Buenos Aires is an eclectic conglomeration of European architecture – a result of the aristocracy trying to mimic the grand cities of Europe – Paris, Florence, etc… Buenos Aires has many parks, statues, and importantly to portenos' (locals), wide avenues. We toured around parks, observing and learning the importance of many of them – including one of the (16?) Rodin’s Thinker statues. We observed many sights including a high rise inspired by Dante, a giant homage to Eva Peron, as well as the central obelisk – commemorating the independence of Argentina from the Spanish.

As we walked through the city, Martin describes in detail the rise of Argentina – with wealth overflowing among the aristocracy, each trying to outdo one another by building the next grandest building. Buenos Aires was the most important port-  as such the wealthy became immensely wealthier. However, the stability of the economy in Argentina was never very solid – leading to many recessions throughout the decades, slowly reducing the influence of its finest city, Buenos Aires.

Many dictatorships occurred throughout the 20^th century – including one military coup, which resulted in the, reportedly, 30,000 disappearances of dissidents within Argentina. Argentina has never recovered from corrupt governments, leading to its current economic crisis – with around 35% inflation – reducing the buying power of the locals’ currency immensely.

We finished our tour at the Pink Building, or the office of the politicians. In Plaza de Mayo – the building is surrounded by iron gates and a constant police presence – often including a riot water cannon. Buenos Aires has seen many protests (rightly so), and these measures surrounding the presidential office are a constant reminder to the people – do not disobey.

The Plaza de Mayo, excluding the militant feel, is very beautiful – with many historical buildings brilliantly lit at night. The cathedral – fashioned in Roman style – faces one of the only remaining colonial buildings (the Argentinians destroyed most of them to erase their Spanish past), which is a Museum of Colonial history.

With our informative tour now over, we wandered through the lively streets of Buenos Aires – enjoying the animated atmosphere – before grabbing a pizza and calling it a night.

Day 14 - Foz do Iguacu (Brazil) to Buenos Aires

An early start today – grabbing a quick bite at the 7am breakfast, ready to catch a taxi into Argentina (pre-arranged). Crossing the border into Argentina was once again a breeze, with barely a look into the car. We arrive at the small airport (IGR) with plenty of time before the flight – in fact, we couldn't check in our luggage until an hour before, and we weren't allowed through ‘security’ until 30 minutes before the departure time. Of course, after my obligatory pat down, we arrive in the departure lounge as our plane is called – very efficient. We board the plane – thankfully more leg room than the previous – and we’re on our way to Buenos Aires!

Arriving in Buenos Aires around 2 hours later – we exit the plane into a modern, large, clean airport. This time – we’re determined not to take a taxi to our hotel. Local transport all the way. That didn't quite work out however. It seems in the few years since Rach’s guide book was published and our arrival – the buses have had an overhaul, becoming entirely cashless. We board bus ‘45’ which should head down town. The bus was empty and the driver didn't speak any English. Waving around bills, saying Cuanto? 5, 10, 20? And hearing only – No..no.. He just waves us to the back of the bus. Oh that’s nice of him we think to ourselves. Little did we know he goes a few stops then motions This is the last stop. Oh right… We exit the bus then check our maps – ah, the ‘45’ is on a circular and we happened to catch it on the wrong side of the street, whoops. We wait 20 minutes for another ‘45’ to arrive – still not quite sure how to pay. We hop on and the bus is completely empty – and again, the driver speaks no English. Cuanto? I ask. No no we receive again. Why don’t they want our money?! After a few more waving of bills and spouting of random amounts, once again, we’re waved to the back of the bus – clearly not bothered about a couple of ignorant Gringos. It wasn't until a few minutes later, when other passengers started filing on to the bus, we noticed the card reader and people swiping in. Oops. Feeling guilty, though satisfied in our free ride – we drive for 40 minutes before reaching our stop. Muchos gracias senor! we shout to the bus driver before swiftly exiting the vehicle.

Ahhh, Buenos Aires. Clean, modern, and a breath of fresh air (maybe not literally). Our hotel was in the down town area – which was filled with lots of restaurants, bars, and cafes – exactly what we’d been looking for and missing in Sao Paulo (still good) and Rio (not quite as good), in terms of selection. We unload our bags into our surprisingly spacious room and head out into the city. Tonight we just enjoyed a long stroll through – well, wherever our feet took us. We ended up at a lovely Italian restaurant where we finally enjoyed a meat free meal that wasn't laden with salt.

After our meal, we strolled along the well-lit avenues, including Ave. de Julho – the widest avenue in the world (they’re very proud of that fact), as well as Florida street (pedestrian only road – famous for the blue market Cambio money changers), and Plaza de Mayo. Our first experience of Buenos Aires was a pleasant one – and we went to bed eagerly looking forward to the next day’s walking tour.

Day 13 - Foz do Iguacu, Iguazu Falls Argentinian side

Our second day in Foz do Iguacu brings our second jaunt to Iguacu Falls – this time on the Argentinian side. We enjoyed the Brazilian side so much it was hard to imagine how the Argentinian side could top it. 

We walked to a hostel around the corner from ours, early in the morning – taking a private car to Argentina - as it takes less than half the time if done privately, and costs only R$10 (£2) more. Unfortunately, on the way to our transport – the Brazilian side walk betrayed me, sticking its many broken bricks in to the air, suitably splitting open my toe on a particularly jagged stone. We taped up the wound and hope it doesn't interfere with our day of walking!

Taking the private car with us was a lovely couple from Vancouver (originally Ghana and Japan), who we would end up spending the day with. Arriving in Argentina after a brief stop at the border, to get our passports stamped, we’re now faced with the Argentinian Iguacu National Park. Unlike Brazil, this side has many paths and tours of the falls one can take – which we fully took advantage of, split toe or no. Starting on the lower, shorter course, we wandered through flora and fauna (coati) and eventually arrived to the smaller sets of waterfalls, seen from afar from Brazil, now up close and personal.

Walking further along the metal board walk we come across more and more waterfalls of increasing sizes. From the short course we could view the ‘Devil’s Throat’ from afar – which was still very impressive. Taking the obligatory selfies here and rainbow shots there – we move further on down the gangway until we reached the boat launch. We’re handed thick waterproof bags for our goods, and fat orange life jackets for our bodies. They were ominously soaked. We hobble on to the speed boat – maybe a 60 seater – and proceed to blast off across the water. 

Unlike the slow ‘Maid of the Mist’ in Niagara, this boat shoots through the water at speed – diving you straight under the waterfalls. First we entered a smaller waterfall – only getting briefly moist – however, the boat then rocketed toward the largest accessible falls. Diving straight under the torrential white spray, eyes unable to even open against the lashing water – we got spectacularly soaked. After two epic drenching sessions we returned to shore – squidging and squelching along the tracks. Fortunately it was a glorious, sunny day – and it wasn't too long before we were suitably dry.

After a quick lunch, dodging the voracious coati, we headed for the long course. This upper, longer course took you along the rest of the falls that we’d seen the previous day, winding along the aquatic-jungle path on a metal platform floating over the water. It’s easy to see why most people seem to enjoy the Argentinian side more – as there’s simply more to do and see. 

Finishing the upper course – we decided to race the pedestrian train to the last stop – the Devil’s Throat. The 2 km walk was warm, sunny, and full of butterflies and even a couple of monkeys – and we just barely missed beating the train to the station. However, as we now only had 1 hour before we were supposed to board our van back to Brazil – we really had to run. Literally diving and weaving through the crowds on what seemed like the never-ending platform – we finally emerged in the mouth of it: the Devil’s Throat. 

It’s simple to see why it got the name, as the falls was a horseshoe shape like the Niagara Falls (throat like?) – but was 10 times as torrential, with huge white plumes of water rocketing in to the sky. The noise and atmosphere was electric – hearing the roar of the falls at your fingertips. After soaking in the view (literally) we had to run back along the extensive platform and catch the train back to the entrance. All in all it was an incredible experience, probably more fulfilling than the Brazilian side – though both were amazing. Arriving back in Brazil with no troubles – we call it a night, ready for our early flight to Buenos Aires in the morning.

Day 12 - Sao Paulo to Foz do Iguacu, Brazilian Iguacu Falls

We awake fresh faced and ready for our morning flight. Opting once again for a taxi (this time as a time saver – rather than convenience) we arrive nice and early to Congonhas Sao Paulo Airport – a fairly small airport full of excited locals going on their holidays. Interestingly, the pre-checked-in line was about 5 times as long as the in-airport check-in line. The airport usher tried to show us to some check-in machines to join the long queue, but logic prevailed and we didn't move from the short queue. After going through the lax security, I was still, once again, man-handled (I'm sure the metal machine didn't even beep!).

We board the fully packed plane and have a short, cramped, hour-long flight to Foz do Iguacu – the eponymous city of the famous Iguacu Falls. Our hostel had arranged transport for us and we arrived at the accommodation swiftly, where the excellent concierge informed us of all the tourist and travel information we needed. We drop off our large packs and immediately head out to the bus stop to get to the Brazilian side of Iguacu Falls. A bus journey of around 1 hour brings us to the National Park of Iguacu Falls. We buy our tickets (just under £40 for the two) and jump on to the tourist bus that takes you to the falls. 

Exiting the bus, we were immediately surrounded by little fox-raccoon-ant eater things, which we later learned were coati, which were very friendly, fuzzy things – that unfortunately could get overzealous when surrounded or near to human food. Though we had many warnings, we had no incidents. Rach wouldn't let me keep one.

Leaving the bus stop – you’re immediately met with the sound of rushing water. Emerging through a wall of trees, suddenly the falls loom out in front of you. Iguacu Falls contains 275 individual water falls – which the Brazilian side shows off in all their immaculate glory. Walking along a single designated path, you’re in constant view of ever increasing numbers of waterfalls – eventually coming to a head on a floating platform in the middle of ‘the Devil’s Throat’ – the largest and most tempestuous waterfall of them all. It really is difficult to describe the sensation of being surrounded by such devastatingly beautiful nature. I have to admit that Iguacu Falls, if there were to be a competition, beats our beloved Niagara Falls. There I said it. Moving on.

After getting mildly wet from the spray of ‘Devil’s Throat’ – we take an elevator up to a panoramic platform offering even more stunning views of the falls. Calling it a day after a couple hours at the Brazilian side, we head home. We had a short wander through the town, grabbed a quick cafeteria style dinner in Foz, and called it a night, ready to begin the second leg of the falls the following morning.

Day 11 - Sao Paulo, Free Walking Tour 'Paulista Ave'

Our 4^th day in Sao Paulo begins and ends much like the last – we start our day with a Sao Paulo with a Free Walking tour and end on Augusta; however, this time we begin in the business district along Paulista Avenue. 

We grab a quick bite to eat before our tour – weird fried pastry things, mine a ‘Japa’ – filled with Japanese mushrooms, and Rachel’s a ‘Ruso’- filled with beef stroganoff!

 Once again we meet Rocco the tour guide, though this time we aren't amidst a thousand enraged teens beating drums and chanting war cries. We have a peaceful walk through Paulista and surrounding areas – taking in the mix of scenery – verdant parks juxtaposed against tall metallic skyscrapers. Once again Rocco provided an informative and entertaining tour of Sao Paulo – this time highlighting how modern and affluent Sao Paulo is and has become.  

Concluding the tour amongst the, now beautifully lit, skyscrapers at night – we wander the surprisingly busy (it was a week night) streets of Paulista, taking in ‘the scene’. This district seemingly housed the subcultures of Sao Paulo – skateboarders, rockers, hipsters – all hanging around in-vogue food trucks and ‘craft’ shops. We stopped for a craft lemonade from ‘the Lemonator’ – which was scrummy. 

We wandered along Paulista until we hit Augusta again, this time heading North for a change of scene from the previous night. After quickly walking away from – what I can only assume was – a heroine dosed rent boy who wouldn't leave us alone – we stopped at a big Brazilian restaurant, hoping that we may encounter some vegetables at some point on our trip. Fortunately they had a great selection to choose from – Rach had a vegetarian moussaka and I had fillet de parmigiano and grilled vegetables – and praise be, both came with a salad!

After that thoroughly satisfying, and exotic, meal – we headed back to the hotel and had our last great night’s sleep in the mega city that was Sao Paulo.

Day 10 - Sao Paulo, Free Walking tour (Old Town), Mercado Municipal, & Solomon's Temple

Our third day in Sao Paulo brought us on our first walking tour. This ‘Sao Paulo Free Walking Tour’ took us to the ‘old town’ – where the foundations and origins of the city could be found. Before the tour could begin however, we had to wait for a protest to move along. Hundreds of high school students were protesting the corrupt government – which had apparently stolen 85% of the money meant for free dinners within the school system. After the impassioned youth (rightly so) had moved on down the street, Rocco the tour guide began telling us the history of Sao Paulo.

As we wandered through the streets – learning the history of this building or that tower - we observed the progression of Sao Paulo society through the ages [Tallest buildings, first library, tenement blocks, first public school, main cathedral etc…]. It was an informative tour and Rocco did a great job of keeping everyone interested.

The tour finished in the early afternoon, and as we were already in the down town area – we decided to take in the famous Mercado Municipal, their grand indoor food market. Similar to St. Lawrence market in Toronto – all the best fruits, cheeses, and meats are sold here – albeit in a much older, more impressive building. We grabbed a delicious fruit salad and headed to our next stop of the day – the recently erected ‘Solomon’s Temple’ – a replica of the famous temple in Jerusalem. This creation however, was significantly larger – boasting that it was even taller than Rio’s Christo Redentor. The building was, indeed, massive – bringing about memories of the temples we’d visited in Egypt (specifically the impressive Edfu temple). Unfortunately the temple didn't open until the evening hours – so we did not get to lay eyes on the golden Ark of the Covenant held within.

Catching a bus back to the Jardins area, we wandered Augusta street, a very popular road filled with shops and restaurants, and decided to eat at a Churascaria. Famously known as ‘Brazilian Barbecue’, the Churascaria was exactly that – being superbly waited on by dozens of servers who would slice and shave the finest grilled meats on to your plate [sirloin, fillet minion, prime rib...] until our bellies were uncomfortably full. Slowly rolling home, we noticed that our feet had literally turned black from the dirt of the streets. After a thorough wash, we flopped our tired, full bodies on to the bed and drifted off in to another quiet slumber.

Day 9 - Sao Paulo, Ibirapuera Park & Sala Sao Paulo

Finally. A peaceful nights rest. 

Our first night in Sao Paulo was much quieter than Rio, and even quieter than the little town of Paraty. Fresh and alert – our first day in Sao Paulo we decide to take in their famous Ibirapuera Park, as we’d planned 2 walking tours for the following 2 days. A short walk from our hotel, we arrive at Ibirapuera amidst the glorious sunshine. 

Surprisingly, Sao Paulo was even hotter than Rio, reaching temperatures of 37°C, with little wind. Ibirapuera was a lovely large, lush park, which I found to resemble Hyde Park in London. Within the gated grounds we found a planetarium (closed), a Latin America History Museum (seemingly in all Portuguese), and a large adventure playground (we couldn't resist). With a small river running through the park – we watched all the water fowl swimming in the shallows, including the native ‘Rio’s, which were crane-like birds.

Exiting the park, we headed toward the affluent neighbourhood of Jardins Europa and Paulistano – a complete change from the neighbourhoods of Rio. Here there were large, detached houses, with long front drives and gated surroundings. Grand, overhanging trees and verdant bushes lined the side walks, creating a quiet, unpolluted atmosphere – far removed from the dusty brown, broken streets of Rio. Strolling through Jardins we came across ritzy car dealerships – Maserati, Rolls-Royce, Aston Martin – before we discovered a massive, boat shaped building – which only later were we told, was the ‘Unique Hotel’, proffering some of the best views of down town Sao Paulo. Oh well. 

We walked further and further through the somewhat winding somewhat structured streets – discovering more oddities like the omnipresent ‘street art’ found ubiquitously throughout Sao Paulo - as well as the Igreja Nossa Senhora do Brasil church – which was apparently the most sought after wedding venue in Sao Paulo – with bookings required 2 years in advance.

With the day-light waning, we decided to visit the famous Sala Sao Paulo – a symphony hall renowned for some of the best acoustics in the world. We took a bus for 30 minutes and arrived at Sala – which evidently is a diamond in the rough – as the neighbourhood surrounding the venue was filled with closed down buildings, rough looking shops, and many homeless. The symphony hall used to be a grand train station in its glory years – and is today still impressive in its size and stature. We were fortunate to get tickets to see Paul Lewis that night – where he serenaded us to the dulcet tones of Schumann and Liszt. After a blissful hour-and-a-half piano concerto, and getting our tickets signed by the man himself, we grabbed a taxi home and called it a night, ready for our full day of tourism tomorrow.

Day 8 - Paraty to Sao Paulo

We arise the next morning – this time fresh faced and awake from a quiet nights rest. We enjoy the small continental breakfast at our hotel, pack our bags, and then head for the bus terminal. Arriving in the small terminal – we’re shocked at how crowded it is. It seems buses really are the way to travel in South America. We wait. And wait. And wait some more. Looking around anxiously, checking to see if our bus had arrived around the corner – or thinking, did we miss it? Surely not, as the woman behind the counter told us – no English spoken – the bus will be in one of the 4 lanes in front of you.

Sure enough, the bus arrives an hour and a half late and we board our charter. Frustratingly, the bus driver pulls out of Paraty, and about 15 minutes down the road, pulls into a truck stop for a 30 minute break. At least it gave us a chance to use the restrooms – as we’d been at the bus terminal for 3 hours and didn’t dare use the toilets lest we miss our tardy bus! Hopping back into the coach, we had a smooth 3 hour drive to Caraguatatuba – our layover on the way to Sao Paulo – where we reveled in the sunshine and glorious coastal roads.

Arriving in Caraguatatuba hours later than our booked tickets, we had to get our bus tickets changed at the counter. Once again, no English spoken, we had to speak in broken Portuguese/Spanish and nod a lot – eventually getting the message across that our bus was late. The ticket lady seemed to understand (maybe she’s accustomed to late buses) and booked us on to the next bus to Sao Paulo for no charge. We grabbed a quick bite to eat (hamburger again – seemingly their national dish) and board our coach to Sao Paulo – a further 3 hour drive.

Arriving much later than planned, we catch a taxi to our hotel – taking in the city sites as we roll. Sao Paulo, compared to Rio, appeared to be far more developed and in better condition, with many tall buildings/skyscrapers scattered along our journey. We checked in to our room, then immediately left for a night time stroll. Sao Paulo – in the jardins district – was very clean, and gave a safer impression than Rio. We strolled through many green blocks, past chiq pizza restaurants and mini marts. Neither of us were particularly hungry, so Rach grabbed a pudding (no surprise) as I grabbed a beer (also standard), and we headed back to our hotel. On the walk back we came across a very friendly (rabid?) bat – which made me question whether we had or had not received our rabies shots. We took the elevator up to the 8^th floor and called it a night – in our blissfully quiet room. Finally.

Day 7 - Paraty, Jeep Tour & Waterfalls

Alas, a quiet sleep it was not. We thought we had escaped the noise of Rio – but it turns out even small little towns accrue their own fair share of nightly clamor. That said – it was still quieter than Rio – there’s something more peaceful to the roars of car engines than the racket of jackhammers. We awake to a small continental breakfast – and thankfully – strong, dark coffee. 

We pack our bags, ready for a day of swimming – and head to the tourist office. Outside the building was a large, raised, green jeep – and inside was a group of clearly (pale white) English speaking people. We attempted to board, however, were told This one isn’t for you. Hmm. A second jeep arrived a few minutes later and we were told this one was for us. Inside were two couples – both Portuguese and non-English speakers. Joining our crew was a guide – also non-English speaking - and the driver. Rach and I looked at each other as if there’d been a mistake, but we’re told – this is your jeep. In the end, there was no real difference as both groups joined together after the 30 minute ride. After driving round winding and dusty roads – we arrived at our first stop. We exit the jeep and start a trek through some jungle (we’d already put on our DEET spray!) until a few minutes later – we emerge on to a small pathway up a cliff. Hanging from some low hanging branches in front of us was a small group of wild marmosets – the guide produced a banana from her pocket and attracted one toward us – kawaii! We begin walking again and exit up the cliff and find ourselves staring out on to a group of beautiful, small waterfalls. We spend an hour here, swimming around the small natural pool and playing under the falls. This was my first chance at playing with my new waterproof GoPro – which seemed to work great!

We dry off in the sun, taking in the beautiful surroundings before heading back down the path – but, there was a guardian of the path we’d under estimated – a large, angry, brown spider. Standing directly in front of us with its fore-legs in the air in an aggressive attack position – I heroically attempted to shoo it from our way. The spider hissed and jumped toward me – narrowly missing my jugular with its fangs*. We ran forward, away from the vicious guardian – safe to live another day. We board the jeeps again and carry on to our next destination... *Some elements may be exaggerated.

The jeeps take us to a local sugar cane plantation which produces the Brazilian Cachaca liquor – as well as molasses and other sugary goodness. We are taught how the cachaca is produced (Sugar cane is ground, purified, distilled, then barreled in different woods – depending on the type of liquor), then are given samples of each type of cachaca they produce – cinnamon & clove, molasses-caramel, coffee liqueurs…etc. After the gently inebriating tour we are taken to a local restaurant to eat local food (re: salty meats and beans).

After a brief lunch – where we sat with a Canadian girl from the other jeep, who had been touring Brazil for three months – we headed to waterfalls 2 and 3. Waterfall 2 was a tall, slippery, boulder-like falls, with water smoothly covering all surfaces. This created a very slippery rock surface – which the locals used as a kind of water slide. Our guide told us it was too dangerous to attempt and took us away to waterfalls #3. Of course, I snuck back and went down the falls anyway! It wasn’t dangerous, but it was fun.

At waterfalls 3, there was another small pool we could swim in – as well as a cliff jumping spot. Once again we were told not to attempt this, as the water was not very deep. As I could see the bottom from where I was standing – I heeded her warning this time. There was however, more excitement to be had – beside the falls was a very worn, rickety wooden bridge. Swaying under the mere thought of crossing it, the bridge had clearly seen better days. Rach and I strapped on our adventure shoes and slowly climbed aboard the derelict bridge. As we crossed the water the bridge swayed and creaked – boards lifted and fell as we tread – with planks broken from their fastenings. Again, we emerged wholly undamaged, satisfied in crossing our first rope bridge.

We finished our tour with a second cachaca distillery (a bit tired of it at this point) and headed back home. We arrive in town to a raucous of noise – a woman's voice shouting over a loudspeaker. I jokingly say to Rachel – That sounds like Portuguese bingo. Lo, I was right – there were around 1,000 people in the town square, all playing bingo – stamping their little paper cards with each proclaimed letter and number. It was an odd sight to say the least – as we watched old men, women, children, and even the shop keepers taking part.

To cap the day off in the last remaining rays of light, we walked along the beach in low tide, squelching and squishing along the sodden sand. As the sun finally sets we had our dinner once again in the old town – enjoying our last night in the beautiful historic atmosphere. We saunter back to our room and await the oncoming dawn for our next bus – to Sao Paulo.