Kobe - the Move

The fun filled week of activity at Sokendai finally came to a close and the 115 international researchers departed ways. The majority stayed within the Tokyo, Kanto region, while I was doing my research in the Kansai region, specifically in the beautiful port city of Kobe. Located next to Japan’s second city, Osaka, there were quite a few researchers located in the Kansai region that I would spend much of my free time with over the next 3 months. With only having the time for a quick lunch, I grab pizza flavoured noodles. Lo and behold, they were not pizza flavoured noodles… they were noodles with a pizza on top! Only in Japan…

                                     

Outside the gates of Kobe University

I arrive in Kobe via the Hikari bullet train, which travels at speeds up to 300 km/h, a feat barely noticeable during the incredibly smooth ride. Kobe is a city built around Osaka bay, which encompasses beach-side townships, vibrant and rich city life, as well as rural residences built upon the Rokkō mountains. My apartment was located on the lush Mount Rokkō which meant I had a very serene, though secluded summer . Situated just a 10 minute walk from the Rokkō campus of Kobe University, it was the perfect location to perform my research, as well as gain valuable mountain climbing experience for my upcoming Fuji-san climb!

View from my balcony of Sannomiya

View from balcony of Mount Rokko

Mount Rokko during the day

My apartment was a 5^th floor, two-bedroom flat which offered stunning views of the Rokkō mountains as well as Sannomiya, the central city of Kobe. Kobe is a city of around 1.5 million people, sprawling all around Osaka Bay and up the mountains. Not only was my apartment an excellent size for Japan, it would have been a decent size in England! Compared to some of the other ‘flats’ my peers had to stay in (ie. a room like a cupboard with no kitchen), I think I had an amazing find.

 Wet room controls + Clothes drier function!

Small but effective wet room +  electronic bath tub

 To cap the night off, I treat myself so some local (?) sake and Kobe beef from the supermarket. Small little portions of the beef weren’t too expensive at all – however, later stories will tell of true, primo Kobe beef. The sake was buttery smooth, bright, and fresh, like a very young white wine. The beef was soft, slightly fatty, and had a creaminess. Plus, those mushrooms… I love Asian mushrooms! Mmmm…

Stay tuned as I explore Kobe and the nearby UNESCO World Heritage Site Himeji Castle.

Tokyo - the Beginning

Konichiwa!

Welcome to the PilsnerPilgrim travel blog, where I will regale and captivate with stories and anecdotes of my worldly travels. Mine and Mrs Pilgrim's journeys around the globe have only just begun, so stay tuned for updates on past, present, and future adventures!

I’d like to begin with my recent jaunt in the land of the rising sun, Nippon itself, Japan. 

I’d always wanted to visit Japan, as it seemed the most exciting Asian country since a young age, growing up with TV shows like Tenchi Muyo, Cowboy Bebop, Trigun, Mushishi and eventually Samurai Champloo. Anime, a category of Japanese cartoon/animation which these programs fall under, always captivated my imagination in a way Western shows never could. Possessing a quality of storytelling and emotive force which transcended the language barrier (because it felt better watching in the native tongue), anime seems to have a profound impact on most of those who watch, or read the manga (more on the cultural impact in the later Japan posts). 

Japan of course was appealing for more than just anime, video games, and sub culture… it always seemed to emanate respect, civility, and quietude in its portrayals. Zen and Buddhism, as well as Shintoism, naturally having a large influence over the development of their culture, as well as their previously long standing closed-door policy, restricting the entrance of foreigners into their shores, leaving a mythical (and xenophobic) aura on the island.

Fast-forward a decade or so and I'm presented with the opportunity to apply for a JSPS fellowship – a Japanese government run program promoting international scientific cooperation. It’s an increasingly popular program, with growing competition from highly qualified and enthusiastic scientists from Britain, France, Germany, Canada, USA, and Sweden. It was an incredible experience and I highly encourage all who are eligible to apply:

http://www.jsps.go.jp/english/e-summer/

Lucky me, I was one of 10 British applicants to be awarded the fellowship, and I was on my way to Japan! After around 15 hours of flight time (with a stop in Frankfurt), I was greeted with a true Japanese welcome by Fuji-san poking gracefully through the clouds.

Mt. Fuji-san

Shinjuku Central Park

Tokyo. What can I say about Tokyo other than I immediately fell in love with this city. Beautiful buildings of all shapes and sizes, surrounded by lush, verdant parks strewn about the seemingly organised city blocks. 

Mode Gakuen Tower, Shinjuku

Even though Tokyo has many Skyscrapers, especially where I was staying in Shinjuku, I wouldn't classify it as a concrete jungle. There was life in those walls. Literally.

Depending on how you class ‘Tokyo’, it has over 38 million residents. Walking around the city during the day time you would never believe it, as often I would be a lone wanderer exploring both small hidden alleys and major cross roads. Serene in my solitude, I would amble along, peering into this shop or that noodle joint.  

Rush hour however, and the city explodes in to life… everything you've seen or read about Tokyo in rush hour is true. Thousands or even millions of perfectly dressed, slim, beautifully kempt beings emerged from their dwellings, mixing together like immeasurable worker ants with a purpose.

Students hanging around Shibuya

Workers who knowingly step on to a train, bursting at the seam with like-minded people, only to be poked and prodded, and shoved with a baton until every last little worker ant is in that train. Amazing. People complain about trains being busy here if your shoulders brush.

I end my first night in Tokyo with traditional Tokyo style Tsukemen (pronounced skay-men), which were phenomenal. At first, I was surprised they forgot to add the noodles to my ramen (they didn’t speak English to me)! But then they kindly brought over this ‘how to eat’ card (which they must find hilarious). Dipping cold, thick noodles into the hot, rich sauce was such a surprisingly delicious experience, I had it as my first and last meal in Japan.

 

Tokyo Tsukemen

I hope you’ve enjoyed today’s story. Stay tuned for more adventures in Japan!