Day 25 - Mendoza to Santiago de Chile

We wake very early on our last day in Mendoza to catch the first bus to Santiago. Packing our bags and happily saying goodbye to this hostel, we emerge into the dimly lit streets and head to the bus terminal. The streets are barren save a few early risers heading to work. After about a half hour walk – our big packs on our back – we reach the terminal, filled with bleary eyed travellers and, appropriately, coffee vendors.

The bus arrives and we grab our large, comfy seats. The ride from Mendoza to Santiago is a beautiful one, traipsing through the winding roads of the Argentinian Andes. Rising gently from lush green valleys into the snow-capped peaks, we reach the Argentina – Chile border, notorious for very, very slow service. We were fortunate it only took us an hour and a half, though the snow did start to surround us as we waited out the security checks. We were told the crossing often takes 6+ hours and we were indeed fortunate to cross at all, as the border was shut the day before due to heavy snow fall.

We make it through security with little difficulty and enjoy the ride as we pass now through the Chilean Andes, down into similar scenes – brown, desert like hills, then finally into lush green valleys.

Santiago is a very large city and like many large cities in South America, the outskirts are home to the ‘favela’-like houses, that is – homes made from scrap metal and other found objects, housing the poorest of the city. As we drive further in to Santiago we’re met with more development, high-rises and skyscrapers lining the streets. The bus terminal is in a very ‘local’ part of the city – and the apartment we’d rented was about an hour walk into the heart of downtown. We saddle up and begin our walk. The streets in this area are filled with street vendors and sellers of various bits and bobs, barbecued foods, and empanadas. As we walk through the vendors, we begin to become teary eyed. The air burned our lungs. Suddenly we’re concerned we booked a week’s stay in a heavily polluted city! Tears rolling down our cheeks, our lips burning – we walk faster to get away, if we could, from the mysterious noxious substance. It wasn’t until the following day that we learned there was a protest near the bus terminal that got out of hand and the police spread tear gas onto the populace. We just happened to be collateral damage!

As we wandered away from the invisible antagonist our eyes eventually became clear and our tongues stopped burning. A short, more enjoyable, walk later and we arrive into the ‘Bellas Artes’ area of downtown Santiago. This was much nicer. Cafes and restaurants littered the beautiful streets, surrounding parks, churches, and museums. Feeling relieved that this area had no poison air – we arrived to our apartment. A massive 20 story building standing firmly in the centre of the area, towering over the surrounding shops and bars. We hesitantly get into the elevator – dubious after our Rio free fall, and head to the 7^th floor. We arrive with no incidents (phew!) and open our door to find the apartment was a beautiful 3 bed mezzanine with more space than we possibly needed. Dropping our bags off, we head out the door and begin to explore our local area. We decide on an Indian restaurant for dinner – our first real non-South American food since we arrived – and it was amazing. Capping the night off with a local craft brew (Quimera Imperial Stout – very nice), we head to our room and call it a night.

Preparations. Backpacking South America

And so it begins. Travelling for 4 months through almost every known climate – how does one begin to pack for such an adventure?

Our journey will begin in scorching hot Rio De Janeiro, Brazil (36°C) – where we’ll enjoy the sun, sand, and sights. As we move across the continent, South-West through Argentina over to Santiago, Chile – we’ll transition through warm, wet, and eventually into cooler climes. With several trips planned along the Andean range, we can expect cooler temperatures, though we’ll be able to relax in the warm, rich climate of the Argentinean wine valleys. As we move North from Santiago, we’ll travel through the driest place on the planet – the Atacama Desert.

Travelling North through Lauca National Park, Chile, Eastward into Bolivia – we’ll enter the highest capital city in the world, La Paz. As such, we expect much cooler (to cold) temperatures. Heading further North into Peru, we’ll be staying at altitude again, in Cuzco – and trekking the Aztec trail to Macchu Pichu. Shortly after we fly into Iquitos – the Peruvian Amazon – where we can assuredly expect warm and wet weather.

Flying further North, into Ecuador, we can expect a range of temperatures – though hopefully have warm, sunny days for our week in the Galapagos Islands. Oppositely, our 2-day trek on the Andes, up Mount Cayambe – the highest volcano on the equator - we can expect cold weather atop the snow-covered peak.

Finally, flying North-East into Colombia, we can expect warm, and hot, weather in Medellin, Cartagena, and Santa Marta, respectively. Concluding our South American adventure, we have a 5-day warm and wet trek through the Northern Colombian Jungle – to Ciudad Perdida, ‘the Lost City’.

Capping off our backpacking adventure is a week in Hawaii – where we’ll hopefully be met with clear blue skies.

To pack for such diverse changes in weather – we’ve set ourselves a challenge of limiting our gear to 45L (Osprey Farpoint 2-in-1 backpacks) and around 25lbs (11kg) each.

For the highest amount of adaptability (and weight efficiency) – we’ve purchased primarily technical clothing. Light, adaptable, breathable, anti-microbial clothing covers all of our needs. We are bringing the following with us:

·       5x Uniqlo Airism T-shirt

·       1x Stretch (zip pocket) shorts

·       1x Cotton shorts

·       2x Ankle socks

·       5x Hiking socks

·       5x Underwear

·       4x Long sleeve tops (1 heat compression, 1 cold compression, 1 breathable, 1 thermal)

·       1x Waterproof softshell jacket

·       2x Technical trousers (1 stretch, water repellent, 1 fleece lined)

·       1x Microsoft Surface Pro 4 computer

·       1x Battery Pack (optional)

·       1x Mirrorless Camera (+accessories)

·       1x Action Videocamera (+waterproof case)

·       1x MiFit fitness tracker

·       2x Sunglasses

·       1x Hat

·       1x UV water purifier (+batteries)

·       1x Cell phone

·       1x Hiking Shoes

·       1x Flipflops

·       1x Microfiber towel

·       1x Sleeping bag liner

·       1x Lock

·       Various toiletries (Shampoo/Bodywash 2in1, Bug spray, Sun cream, First aid kit, etc…)

·       2x Passport photocopies (+various reservations)

The above items (plus a few more bits and bobs) add to 25lbs, which in the Osprey backpacks is a very manageable amount. Furthermore, the detachable day pack allows you to travel around with only the essentials on your back (in a secure container). As I’m writing this (1-week into travels), I definitely don’t feel without. Most places have laundry facilities, and you can always pick up essentials on your way – so less, is definitely more! Of course - pre-planning a rough route is a great idea to get your head around where, how, and what you might see. Just remember, things can, and will, go wrong - so just keep your cool and enjoy the moment! Lastly, make sure you look into health related issues for each and every country/area you'll be visiting - some countries require vaccinations + certificates, but above all - it's not worth taking the risk! We had yellow fever, typhoid, hepatitis A, and a tetanus booster for these travels - as well as malaria tablets for our time spent in jungles.

Stay tuned for the beginning of our adventure - it's going to be great!