Day 5 - Rio, Copacabana, Ipanema, & Jardim Botanico

Good morning Rio! What shall we do today? Well, it’s been a very busy few days – so why not have a more relaxing day – wandering through Rio’s botanical gardens. We begin our trek down the lengthy Copacabana beach – crossing over to Ipanema beach, a thinner but oddly busier beach. Gently strolling down the soft sands and warm sidewalks we decided to ‘take our first coconut’. For the small sum of R$5 (about £1 at time of writing), the vendor chops open a fresh, green, coconut with a machete, sticking in a straw for your oral enjoyment. Very refreshing, and oddly satisfying – green coconut water/juice is gently flavoured and about half as sweet as a soft drink. Lolling along the sandy causeway, sipping on coconut, you couldn’t help but feel at peace. Rio is a very clean (very little litter) but very dirty (soot/sand/?) city – I often found myself rubbing mystery particles out of my eyes – so the gentle breeze, hot sun, and clean coconut combination, alongside the crystal clear water, was a nice change.

Passing by Ipanema beach on to Leblon beach (much quieter), we grew closer to the gardens. The botanical gardens (about 8km from where we started) was immediately a place of solace from the bustle of the Rio streets. Lush, green plants from all over the world encapsulate quite a large park – playing host to hundreds of flower and bird species. We enjoyed a walk through an Orchid nursery – as well as an area flaunting dozens of cactus species of every shape and size. The highlight of the gardens was watching tiny little humming birds darting around, presumably looking for their next meal.

We finished our walk in the gardens through a section on worldly medicinal plants (all signs in Portuguese unfortunately) and began our long trek home. Stopping for dinner in a little local pub(?) eating our last Rio meal – refreshing our weary feet – we reflect on our days in Rio. We both thoroughly enjoyed Rio – though – we both expected more colour. It’s a very grey city – which just didn’t gel with our preconceptions of what Rio (and our first taste of Latin America) would be like. We must have gone in expecting 24/7 Carnivale – and although we didn’t get it, still enjoyed the city. Next on the docket – is the small colonial town of Paraty (pronounced Pa-ra-chee). Stay tuned!

Day 4 - Rio, Christ the Redeemer & Sugar Loaf Mountains

Rio day 3. After another night of semi-disquietude, we embarked on our journey to the 2 most famous landmarks in Rio – Christo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) and the Sugar Loaf Mountains. We plan our journey to Corcovado (meaning Humpback Mountain, upon which Christo can be found) first, as we were told it can get very busy and hot in the afternoon – and that Sugar Loaf boasts an epic sunset not to be missed. The internets told us there was a bus company that would drive you up Corcovado for a very reasonable price – sounds great right? We arrive at the designated spot and lo-and-behold, there’s a salesman selling tickets for tours. In broken conversation – he tells us that for Corcovado, it is R$26 (reais, Brazilian dollars – pronounced ‘ray-uh’ or ‘hey-eye’ depending on who says it, and pluralisation). Of course we get on his bus, and immediately after driving down the road, the driver asks for R$80 each. Fortunately, when we declined, he let us out without hassle (phew) – and we hopped into a taxi to Cosme velho ($R70), the tourist train station where you take a small train up Corcovado. Traveller tip – there is also a metro station a few minutes walk from Cosme velho as well as a regular bus (more time), so it’s worth taking public transport!

Taking the tourist train (R$52 each, including admission [R$26]) we had a slow but enjoyable 20 minute journey through the jungle on Corcovado. Emerging from the lush jungle we arrive atop Corcovado, with the omnipresent Jesus looming overhead. Surrounding the foot of the statue was perhaps 100 people – crowded, but not off putting – all taking pictures and of course, Jesus-selfies. The statue itself was recently renovated (within 20 years) making it look immaculate and ominous. Even on a non-believer the presence of such a large, powerful symbol is not lost. A modern wonder definitely not to be missed if journeying to Rio. Statue aside, Corcovado also offers stunning views of Rio and the surrounding bays and is well worth taking in the beautiful vista.

After our striking stint with Jesus, we took the bus back to Copacabana and decided to walk to the Sugar loaf. The walk was enjoyable (maybe 30-60 minutes), strolling through various streets and neighborhoods of Rio. Arriving at Sugar loaf at around 4pm, we were there in perfect time to take in the sunset at around 5:30pm. Riding the cable cars up the 2 small mountains offers more stunning views of Rio – admittedly in very hot, cramped quarters. Arriving on the first of the two mountains, you are surrounded by food and drink shops, as well as benches and lounge chairs to relax and take in the views. Journeying to the second (taller) mountain, gives you the opportunity to wander through some native Rio flora in their ‘nature park’. We were lucky to spot some lizards crawling around rocks before we came across what everyone wants to see – wild marmosets! The cute little creatures were swinging and jumping around trees, having a great time – until the crowds started to gather around us, clearly interested in what I was filming! After the encounter with the little primates – we observed, the best we could, the famous sunset. Unfortunately much of the tall sugar loaf mountain was under construction (surprise) so we could not capture the best shots.

We headed back down the mountains and decided once again to walk back to Copacabana. At this point we have an hour long journey through the darkening streets of Rio – and we felt completely safe. Most anecdotal stories everyone seems to hear about muggings are just that – anecdotes. Rio has for many years been a safe place to travel, and as long as you’re not flaunting cash from your open front pockets, you’ll be alright. We arrived in Copacabana – and suddenly decided, even though exhausted, to go to Lapa. Lapa is a very famous district for food and frivolity. We take the metro north toward Carioca and emerge from the underground into live music and drunken revelry. We choose a restaurant with live music and grab some drinks – chilling out to the sweet, sharp sounds of the band. In front of the band were couples swinging, twirling, and dancing around, having a gay old time. We decided – it’s in our best interest to leave the dancing to these seemingly professional dancers. We eventually call it a night as our eyelids began to droop, after a long fulfilling day, and hike back up those darn 10 flights of stairs. 

Day 3 - Tour of Rio de Janeiro

Bom dia a todos! As we pull our groggy, jet lagged bodies down 10 flights of stairs – we emerge into the noisy, hot streets of Rio. What guidebooks – and people – never told us, is that Rio is in a constant state of repair. The buildings, the roads, the sidewalks, random blocks of concrete – all broken and being mended in a continuous cycle of noise. Needless to say, wherever we went in Rio, there was always noise. Beach noise, construction noise, people shouting (Agua de doiche! Agua de doiche! or something to that effect), and cars honking. Be prepared. 

We exited our apartment and picked up some local baked goods that were ubiquitous in all the shops – cheesy, breaded meats and seafood. Cheap, satisfying, and salty. We hop on the metro – which consists of 2 lines – and head North to Carioca station. There, I grab a coffee (very nice – strong), and meet up with other travelers going on the Rio free walking tour (Rio - Free walker tours) [Which we highly recommend!]

Our tour was led by a well spoken Carioca (Rio local), who guided us along many of Rio’s most famous locations. The walk was a gentle 3 hours and was very informative. We walked through old cobbled streets, observing historical buildings – each told with their unique histories. One building was a restaurant for the aristocracy and presidents. Another, the palace of the first King of Brazil. Next, the home of famous entertainer Carmen Miranda. The House of Justice, the Municipal building for politicians, and the National Theatre. The aqueduct – now tourist train – and the Principal Cathedral. Finally, we finish on Rio’s famous steps – created from tiles donated from over 60 countries.

The group – consisting of German, Swiss, Austrian, Canadian, and British tourists, all stop for lunch together after the tour – dining in a local restaurant, eating typical meat and bean dishes. The group says their goodbyes and we stick with a Swiss couple, and a German tourist, all of whom have been touring South America for the past few months. We visit the large Cathedral – which was very pretty inside in a stark, unusual way. The building was designed in a way as to draw everyone together – looking up to the heavens.

We jump on to the little tourist train and ride up into Santa Theresa – which supposedly boasts a stunning 360° view. We couldn’t find this place. We did however, find a lookout point which proffered a beautiful view over the surrounding bay.

After a trek down from Santa Theresa (the train stops at 4pm) – we decided to watch the famous sunset of Ipanema and Leblon beaches at Arpoador. A gentle climb atop some well-worn rocks, on a small peninsula off Ipanema, we relax and watch as the sun strikingly sets before us.

We say Goodbye to our German traveler friend (his 2^nd last day of travels) and grab some nightcaps on Copacabana. The famous Rio drink – Caipirinha (lime, cachaça [sugar cane liquor], ice, and sugar) soothes our weary feet and we say goodnight to Rio once more.

Day 2 - Rio, in the beggining

Rio. After 10-and-a-half groggy hours on the red-eye from YYZ to XX, we arrive. Slowly awaking from the long haul, we step off the plane in to glorious sunshine. Rio. Hot, and already humid – the 10am Sun is unforgiving. We pass through security with nary a glance at our documents – two quick stamps and we’re in. The airport is modern and clean, however, as soon as we step through the gate – ‘taxi drivers’ and other men of unknown intent approach and offer their services. We politely ignore them and move through the crowd toward HSBC. Travellers tip – HSBC, so far, has been the only bank that does not charge fees for withdrawing money.

There are a few options to get into downtown (we stayed in Copacabana) – local bus, tour bus, or taxi. We chose taxi as we were exhausted, disorientated, and well – it’s easy. At the airport you go to the certified taxi counters as they give you a price before you depart and then you’re away with no hassle. We ride for maybe 40 minutes into town, weaving and dodging through traffic as if there were no designated lanes. This is normal. Traffic is – as it is in much of the world – very fluid. Where there is room to move – like water flowing through cracks – a car will find its way.

We pass through green hills, grey concrete tower blocks, and by the notorious ‘favelas’ – or slums of Rio. Men work topless – doing unknown jobs on broken slabs of concrete. A boy rides by on an emaciated, brown horse, cantering through the dusty passages. Colourful aluminium sheets cover shacks made of patchwork cements. We keep driving – past the poverty and into the downtown sector of Rio. The ‘Sugar Loaf’ mountains rise up on our left as we pass through a brightly lit tunnel and Copacabana sprawls out before us. Our quaint studio apartment was on the 10^th floor on Av. Prado Junior, guarded 24/7 by security – though we never felt it warranted. Rio, from our brief encounter, felt very safe. Most streets were well lit, with life flowing through at all hours. 

Our apartment, 1 block from Copacabana beach, was in a great location surrounded by small markets and restaurants. As we took the elevator from our 10^th floor for the first time, excited to explore the city, our first travelling disaster struck. 

The elevator lights flickered ominously on the 9^th floor, until complete darkness enveloped our metal cage. The elevator, devoid of electricity, drops unhindered for what felt like 20 feet. In reality it was probably 20 inches. The emergency brakes screeched into life and we stop – trapped, alone, in the dark, in a building where no one spoke English. My Wife, terrified at the realisation of her worst nightmare, grabs my arm as I fumble for my phone – our only source of illumination. My light flashes into life – highlighting our desolate situation. “Hello?” I scream. “Ola? Hello? Is there anyone there?” Nothing could be heard but the creaks of the metal cables – our only lifeline. I decide to slide open the elevator doors to assess our situation. Luckily, we’d fallen about 3 feet shy of the 8^th floor. “Ola? Can anyone help us?” No reply. Bang, Bang, Bang, as I rap my hand on the outer security door. 10 minutes go by as we stand in the scorching, gloomy cage. “Well, we were told not to freak out when things went wrong” I said to reassure my Wife in vain. “Ola!” a voice cried on the other side of the metal. “Ola… followed by long, incomprehensible sentences of Portuguese”. “Um.. There’s 2 of us trapped in here… Can you open the door?”. BANG. BANG. The man was apparently trying to open the door with brute force. Eventually, the door released its hateful entrapment with a rusted sounding groan. All we had to do was pull ourselves up 3 feet and we were free. I’d seen enough horror movies to be slightly apprehensive of - if, and when, the elevator car would free fall again – slicing my recently liberated body in half. Of course, this didn’t happen and we were both whole and entirely undamaged. We walked up those 10 flights thereafter.

After ‘the event’, our day and night was relaxing. We had a very warm, tranquil walk along Copacabana beach – watching the children play in the small, calm waves, and the adults play ‘foot volleyball’ in the sand. We stopped for dinner in one of the many beach restaurants where I enjoyed a burger in the local fashion (mixed meats, loads of cheese, and a ‘homemade’ garlic mayonnaise), and Rach had a local-styled hotdog. Those, mixed with a Pina Colada and a few beers made for a sleepy evening walk home, and a deep, blissful sleep. Sonhos doces todos!