Day 4 - Rio, Christ the Redeemer & Sugar Loaf Mountains

Rio day 3. After another night of semi-disquietude, we embarked on our journey to the 2 most famous landmarks in Rio – Christo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) and the Sugar Loaf Mountains. We plan our journey to Corcovado (meaning Humpback Mountain, upon which Christo can be found) first, as we were told it can get very busy and hot in the afternoon – and that Sugar Loaf boasts an epic sunset not to be missed. The internets told us there was a bus company that would drive you up Corcovado for a very reasonable price – sounds great right? We arrive at the designated spot and lo-and-behold, there’s a salesman selling tickets for tours. In broken conversation – he tells us that for Corcovado, it is R$26 (reais, Brazilian dollars – pronounced ‘ray-uh’ or ‘hey-eye’ depending on who says it, and pluralisation). Of course we get on his bus, and immediately after driving down the road, the driver asks for R$80 each. Fortunately, when we declined, he let us out without hassle (phew) – and we hopped into a taxi to Cosme velho ($R70), the tourist train station where you take a small train up Corcovado. Traveller tip – there is also a metro station a few minutes walk from Cosme velho as well as a regular bus (more time), so it’s worth taking public transport!

Taking the tourist train (R$52 each, including admission [R$26]) we had a slow but enjoyable 20 minute journey through the jungle on Corcovado. Emerging from the lush jungle we arrive atop Corcovado, with the omnipresent Jesus looming overhead. Surrounding the foot of the statue was perhaps 100 people – crowded, but not off putting – all taking pictures and of course, Jesus-selfies. The statue itself was recently renovated (within 20 years) making it look immaculate and ominous. Even on a non-believer the presence of such a large, powerful symbol is not lost. A modern wonder definitely not to be missed if journeying to Rio. Statue aside, Corcovado also offers stunning views of Rio and the surrounding bays and is well worth taking in the beautiful vista.

After our striking stint with Jesus, we took the bus back to Copacabana and decided to walk to the Sugar loaf. The walk was enjoyable (maybe 30-60 minutes), strolling through various streets and neighborhoods of Rio. Arriving at Sugar loaf at around 4pm, we were there in perfect time to take in the sunset at around 5:30pm. Riding the cable cars up the 2 small mountains offers more stunning views of Rio – admittedly in very hot, cramped quarters. Arriving on the first of the two mountains, you are surrounded by food and drink shops, as well as benches and lounge chairs to relax and take in the views. Journeying to the second (taller) mountain, gives you the opportunity to wander through some native Rio flora in their ‘nature park’. We were lucky to spot some lizards crawling around rocks before we came across what everyone wants to see – wild marmosets! The cute little creatures were swinging and jumping around trees, having a great time – until the crowds started to gather around us, clearly interested in what I was filming! After the encounter with the little primates – we observed, the best we could, the famous sunset. Unfortunately much of the tall sugar loaf mountain was under construction (surprise) so we could not capture the best shots.

We headed back down the mountains and decided once again to walk back to Copacabana. At this point we have an hour long journey through the darkening streets of Rio – and we felt completely safe. Most anecdotal stories everyone seems to hear about muggings are just that – anecdotes. Rio has for many years been a safe place to travel, and as long as you’re not flaunting cash from your open front pockets, you’ll be alright. We arrived in Copacabana – and suddenly decided, even though exhausted, to go to Lapa. Lapa is a very famous district for food and frivolity. We take the metro north toward Carioca and emerge from the underground into live music and drunken revelry. We choose a restaurant with live music and grab some drinks – chilling out to the sweet, sharp sounds of the band. In front of the band were couples swinging, twirling, and dancing around, having a gay old time. We decided – it’s in our best interest to leave the dancing to these seemingly professional dancers. We eventually call it a night as our eyelids began to droop, after a long fulfilling day, and hike back up those darn 10 flights of stairs.