Day 22 - Mendoza, Free Walking Tour

Our first night in Mendoza was a peaceful one – that is, until the morning light poured through our tissue thin curtains. Waking early, we grab a bite at the paltry breakfast offering. Not the finest hostel thus far.

We begin our day by having another stroll through Mendoza – this time heading toward the newer end of town. Mendoza was much larger than we thought, and even after an hour of walking it seems like we barely touched the new town. After taking a quick peak into the local casino (mostly slots, not my style) we headed back into the old town.

We head toward a small plaza, where we meet up with a ‘Mendoza free walking tour’ guide. Just Rach, myself, and a Danish traveller were on the tour today. The guide took us around the many plazas and squares of the town – explaining the historical significance of this and that (much of what he articulated overlapped with the Buenos Aires tours, but it was still enjoyable). After about 2 hours (our shortest walking tour yet) – we still had itchy feet, so continued to explore Mendoza.

Eventually stumbling upon a beautiful restaurant laden street – we choose an upmarket establishment for a nice meal out. We ended up having the traditional Argentinian barbecue – which included various cuts of steak, liver, kidney, intestine, and even a testicle of some animal. It was… an experience. Fortunately – we had an excellent bottle of Mendoza’s finest to wash the various flavours down.

After the gargantuan meal we slowly crawl our way back to the hostel. Interestingly, in South America – dogs are omnipresent. Literally everywhere. Fortunately they are mostly clean(relative), and friendly and will follow you around happily just for a bit of attention. We were chaperoned back to our door by a beautiful black dog, who would even wait at road crossings for us. It was an endearing finish to a peaceful night.

Day 16 - Buenos Aires, 'Recoleta' Free Walking Tour, Bellas Artes Art Gallery, & Tango!

Our third day in Buenos Aires and we begin to get a good feel for the city. Local restaurants, cafes, and shops become familiar as we wander the streets with savoir faire. Today we join another walking tour, exploring the other ‘down town’ areas of BA. Fernando is our tour guide, a lawyer, who provides a more light-hearted, jovial tour than the previous night (which was very historical and rather morose). Both were excellent tours providing insights on to different facets of this beautiful city. Fernando, much like Martin, points out architectural oddities, the juxtaposition of western and eastern influences, famous statues, and unique districts along the way. Interestingly, Buenos Aires has the 4^th largest community of Jewish peoples in the world, the second religion of the city behind Christianity.

We wander through lush parks, learning of this historical person or that – often with a theme surrounding the shaping of Argentina. Famous throughout Argentina (Chile, Bolivia, and Peru as well) is the figure of San Martin – a military leader who helped defeat the Spanish and grant autonomy to Argentina. Often depicted on horseback, pointing to the West – toward the Andes – mimicking his valiant crossing of the Andes with 5,000 men - in only 16 days, defeating the Spanish overlords from these 4 respective countries. In anyone one of these countries (and each city within) you will undoubtedly find a road San martin, a plaza San Martin, a San Martin shopping centre etc…

Our tour ends in the famous Recoleta Cemetery, which is renowned for it’s large, opulent mausoleums of the aristocracy from Argentina – all built in jagged streets, imitating a small unique city of the dead. Saying goodbye to Fernando, we headed to the National Art Museum – which housed numerous painting from many of the greats – Van Gogh, Monet, Manet, Pollock… A true pleasure to visit.

After a quick dinner with a bottle of local vino – we head to our evening Tango show. Located in the famous Café Tortoni – we’re seated in a dusky subterranean, brick theatre – imitating the streets of yester-Buenos Aires. Sipping on champagne – we’re enthralled by the rhythmic gyrating bodies entwined on stage, dancing to slow-then fast-then slow tango songs. A lone performer took the stage – swinging long ropes with wooden balls on the ends. The dancer spun and smacked the instruments on the ground – choreographing a song and tap dance to his fast paced twirling. The show ended with a lone singer on stage – belting out some powerful melody that was completely lost on us verbally – but was none the less a beautiful performance. We highly enjoyed our show – and walked back to our hotel thoroughly satisfied in today’s adventures.

Day 15 - Buenos Aires, Evening Free Walking Tour

What is with cities in South America? Our room, on the 5^th floor, felt very secluded and quiet. That was until cars entered and/or exited the parking garage across from the hotel – triggering a flashing light (luckily we couldn’t see it) and a loud siren – presumably to warn other cars and passengers about the emerging vehicle. A good theory, in principle, however, this garage (and seemingly all of them throughout the city) was constantly busy – meaning that darn siren was going off every 10 minutes every hour of the day and night. Eventually your mind drowns it out, getting used to the shrill cry – however, the first night we weren’t sure whether to evacuate the building or what to do, as it sounded exactly like a fire alarm.

Anyway. 

We awake to a small continental breakfast – with terrible, burnt coffee – and make our way to the meeting point for our walking tour. The tour, Buenos Aires Free Walking Tours, was led by a well-informed, well-spoken sociologist named Martin. The tour began at the Congresso Nacional and meandered through the city – highlighting key elements from Buenos Aires’s rise and fall from grace. A very beautiful city, Buenos Aires is an eclectic conglomeration of European architecture – a result of the aristocracy trying to mimic the grand cities of Europe – Paris, Florence, etc… Buenos Aires has many parks, statues, and importantly to portenos' (locals), wide avenues. We toured around parks, observing and learning the importance of many of them – including one of the (16?) Rodin’s Thinker statues. We observed many sights including a high rise inspired by Dante, a giant homage to Eva Peron, as well as the central obelisk – commemorating the independence of Argentina from the Spanish.

As we walked through the city, Martin describes in detail the rise of Argentina – with wealth overflowing among the aristocracy, each trying to outdo one another by building the next grandest building. Buenos Aires was the most important port-  as such the wealthy became immensely wealthier. However, the stability of the economy in Argentina was never very solid – leading to many recessions throughout the decades, slowly reducing the influence of its finest city, Buenos Aires.

Many dictatorships occurred throughout the 20^th century – including one military coup, which resulted in the, reportedly, 30,000 disappearances of dissidents within Argentina. Argentina has never recovered from corrupt governments, leading to its current economic crisis – with around 35% inflation – reducing the buying power of the locals’ currency immensely.

We finished our tour at the Pink Building, or the office of the politicians. In Plaza de Mayo – the building is surrounded by iron gates and a constant police presence – often including a riot water cannon. Buenos Aires has seen many protests (rightly so), and these measures surrounding the presidential office are a constant reminder to the people – do not disobey.

The Plaza de Mayo, excluding the militant feel, is very beautiful – with many historical buildings brilliantly lit at night. The cathedral – fashioned in Roman style – faces one of the only remaining colonial buildings (the Argentinians destroyed most of them to erase their Spanish past), which is a Museum of Colonial history.

With our informative tour now over, we wandered through the lively streets of Buenos Aires – enjoying the animated atmosphere – before grabbing a pizza and calling it a night.

Day 11 - Sao Paulo, Free Walking Tour 'Paulista Ave'

Our 4^th day in Sao Paulo begins and ends much like the last – we start our day with a Sao Paulo with a Free Walking tour and end on Augusta; however, this time we begin in the business district along Paulista Avenue. 

We grab a quick bite to eat before our tour – weird fried pastry things, mine a ‘Japa’ – filled with Japanese mushrooms, and Rachel’s a ‘Ruso’- filled with beef stroganoff!

 Once again we meet Rocco the tour guide, though this time we aren't amidst a thousand enraged teens beating drums and chanting war cries. We have a peaceful walk through Paulista and surrounding areas – taking in the mix of scenery – verdant parks juxtaposed against tall metallic skyscrapers. Once again Rocco provided an informative and entertaining tour of Sao Paulo – this time highlighting how modern and affluent Sao Paulo is and has become.  

Concluding the tour amongst the, now beautifully lit, skyscrapers at night – we wander the surprisingly busy (it was a week night) streets of Paulista, taking in ‘the scene’. This district seemingly housed the subcultures of Sao Paulo – skateboarders, rockers, hipsters – all hanging around in-vogue food trucks and ‘craft’ shops. We stopped for a craft lemonade from ‘the Lemonator’ – which was scrummy. 

We wandered along Paulista until we hit Augusta again, this time heading North for a change of scene from the previous night. After quickly walking away from – what I can only assume was – a heroine dosed rent boy who wouldn't leave us alone – we stopped at a big Brazilian restaurant, hoping that we may encounter some vegetables at some point on our trip. Fortunately they had a great selection to choose from – Rach had a vegetarian moussaka and I had fillet de parmigiano and grilled vegetables – and praise be, both came with a salad!

After that thoroughly satisfying, and exotic, meal – we headed back to the hotel and had our last great night’s sleep in the mega city that was Sao Paulo.

Day 10 - Sao Paulo, Free Walking tour (Old Town), Mercado Municipal, & Solomon's Temple

Our third day in Sao Paulo brought us on our first walking tour. This ‘Sao Paulo Free Walking Tour’ took us to the ‘old town’ – where the foundations and origins of the city could be found. Before the tour could begin however, we had to wait for a protest to move along. Hundreds of high school students were protesting the corrupt government – which had apparently stolen 85% of the money meant for free dinners within the school system. After the impassioned youth (rightly so) had moved on down the street, Rocco the tour guide began telling us the history of Sao Paulo.

As we wandered through the streets – learning the history of this building or that tower - we observed the progression of Sao Paulo society through the ages [Tallest buildings, first library, tenement blocks, first public school, main cathedral etc…]. It was an informative tour and Rocco did a great job of keeping everyone interested.

The tour finished in the early afternoon, and as we were already in the down town area – we decided to take in the famous Mercado Municipal, their grand indoor food market. Similar to St. Lawrence market in Toronto – all the best fruits, cheeses, and meats are sold here – albeit in a much older, more impressive building. We grabbed a delicious fruit salad and headed to our next stop of the day – the recently erected ‘Solomon’s Temple’ – a replica of the famous temple in Jerusalem. This creation however, was significantly larger – boasting that it was even taller than Rio’s Christo Redentor. The building was, indeed, massive – bringing about memories of the temples we’d visited in Egypt (specifically the impressive Edfu temple). Unfortunately the temple didn't open until the evening hours – so we did not get to lay eyes on the golden Ark of the Covenant held within.

Catching a bus back to the Jardins area, we wandered Augusta street, a very popular road filled with shops and restaurants, and decided to eat at a Churascaria. Famously known as ‘Brazilian Barbecue’, the Churascaria was exactly that – being superbly waited on by dozens of servers who would slice and shave the finest grilled meats on to your plate [sirloin, fillet minion, prime rib...] until our bellies were uncomfortably full. Slowly rolling home, we noticed that our feet had literally turned black from the dirt of the streets. After a thorough wash, we flopped our tired, full bodies on to the bed and drifted off in to another quiet slumber.

Day 3 - Tour of Rio de Janeiro

Bom dia a todos! As we pull our groggy, jet lagged bodies down 10 flights of stairs – we emerge into the noisy, hot streets of Rio. What guidebooks – and people – never told us, is that Rio is in a constant state of repair. The buildings, the roads, the sidewalks, random blocks of concrete – all broken and being mended in a continuous cycle of noise. Needless to say, wherever we went in Rio, there was always noise. Beach noise, construction noise, people shouting (Agua de doiche! Agua de doiche! or something to that effect), and cars honking. Be prepared. 

We exited our apartment and picked up some local baked goods that were ubiquitous in all the shops – cheesy, breaded meats and seafood. Cheap, satisfying, and salty. We hop on the metro – which consists of 2 lines – and head North to Carioca station. There, I grab a coffee (very nice – strong), and meet up with other travelers going on the Rio free walking tour (Rio - Free walker tours) [Which we highly recommend!]

Our tour was led by a well spoken Carioca (Rio local), who guided us along many of Rio’s most famous locations. The walk was a gentle 3 hours and was very informative. We walked through old cobbled streets, observing historical buildings – each told with their unique histories. One building was a restaurant for the aristocracy and presidents. Another, the palace of the first King of Brazil. Next, the home of famous entertainer Carmen Miranda. The House of Justice, the Municipal building for politicians, and the National Theatre. The aqueduct – now tourist train – and the Principal Cathedral. Finally, we finish on Rio’s famous steps – created from tiles donated from over 60 countries.

The group – consisting of German, Swiss, Austrian, Canadian, and British tourists, all stop for lunch together after the tour – dining in a local restaurant, eating typical meat and bean dishes. The group says their goodbyes and we stick with a Swiss couple, and a German tourist, all of whom have been touring South America for the past few months. We visit the large Cathedral – which was very pretty inside in a stark, unusual way. The building was designed in a way as to draw everyone together – looking up to the heavens.

We jump on to the little tourist train and ride up into Santa Theresa – which supposedly boasts a stunning 360° view. We couldn’t find this place. We did however, find a lookout point which proffered a beautiful view over the surrounding bay.

After a trek down from Santa Theresa (the train stops at 4pm) – we decided to watch the famous sunset of Ipanema and Leblon beaches at Arpoador. A gentle climb atop some well-worn rocks, on a small peninsula off Ipanema, we relax and watch as the sun strikingly sets before us.

We say Goodbye to our German traveler friend (his 2^nd last day of travels) and grab some nightcaps on Copacabana. The famous Rio drink – Caipirinha (lime, cachaça [sugar cane liquor], ice, and sugar) soothes our weary feet and we say goodnight to Rio once more.