Saturday, 23 July 2016

Day 25 - Mendoza to Santiago de Chile

We wake very early on our last day in Mendoza to catch the first bus to Santiago. Packing our bags and happily saying goodbye to this hostel, we emerge into the dimly lit streets and head to the bus terminal. The streets are barren save a few early risers heading to work. After about a half hour walk – our big packs on our back – we reach the terminal, filled with bleary eyed travellers and, appropriately, coffee vendors.
The bus arrives and we grab our large, comfy seats. The ride from Mendoza to Santiago is a beautiful one, traipsing through the winding roads of the Argentinian Andes. Rising gently from lush green valleys into the snow-capped peaks, we reach the Argentina – Chile border, notorious for very, very slow service. We were fortunate it only took us an hour and a half, though the snow did start to surround us as we waited out the security checks. We were told the crossing often takes 6+ hours and we were indeed fortunate to cross at all, as the border was shut the day before due to heavy snow fall.
We make it through security with little difficulty and enjoy the ride as we pass now through the Chilean Andes, down into similar scenes – brown, desert like hills, then finally into lush green valleys.

Santiago is a very large city and like many large cities in South America, the outskirts are home to the ‘favela’-like houses, that is – homes made from scrap metal and other found objects, housing the poorest of the city. As we drive further in to Santiago we’re met with more development, high-rises and skyscrapers lining the streets. The bus terminal is in a very ‘local’ part of the city – and the apartment we’d rented was about an hour walk into the heart of downtown. We saddle up and begin our walk. The streets in this area are filled with street vendors and sellers of various bits and bobs, barbecued foods, and empanadas. As we walk through the vendors, we begin to become teary eyed. The air burned our lungs. Suddenly we’re concerned we booked a week’s stay in a heavily polluted city! Tears rolling down our cheeks, our lips burning – we walk faster to get away, if we could, from the mysterious noxious substance. It wasn’t until the following day that we learned there was a protest near the bus terminal that got out of hand and the police spread tear gas onto the populace. We just happened to be collateral damage!


As we wandered away from the invisible antagonist our eyes eventually became clear and our tongues stopped burning. A short, more enjoyable, walk later and we arrive into the ‘Bellas Artes’ area of downtown Santiago. This was much nicer. Cafes and restaurants littered the beautiful streets, surrounding parks, churches, and museums. Feeling relieved that this area had no poison air – we arrived to our apartment. A massive 20 story building standing firmly in the centre of the area, towering over the surrounding shops and bars. We hesitantly get into the elevator – dubious after our Rio free fall, and head to the 7th floor. We arrive with no incidents (phew!) and open our door to find the apartment was a beautiful 3 bed mezzanine with more space than we possibly needed. Dropping our bags off, we head out the door and begin to explore our local area. We decide on an Indian restaurant for dinner – our first real non-South American food since we arrived – and it was amazing. Capping the night off with a local craft brew (Quimera Imperial Stout – very nice), we head to our room and call it a night.



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