Day 13 - Foz do Iguacu, Iguazu Falls Argentinian side

Our second day in Foz do Iguacu brings our second jaunt to Iguacu Falls – this time on the Argentinian side. We enjoyed the Brazilian side so much it was hard to imagine how the Argentinian side could top it. 

We walked to a hostel around the corner from ours, early in the morning – taking a private car to Argentina - as it takes less than half the time if done privately, and costs only R$10 (£2) more. Unfortunately, on the way to our transport – the Brazilian side walk betrayed me, sticking its many broken bricks in to the air, suitably splitting open my toe on a particularly jagged stone. We taped up the wound and hope it doesn't interfere with our day of walking!

Taking the private car with us was a lovely couple from Vancouver (originally Ghana and Japan), who we would end up spending the day with. Arriving in Argentina after a brief stop at the border, to get our passports stamped, we’re now faced with the Argentinian Iguacu National Park. Unlike Brazil, this side has many paths and tours of the falls one can take – which we fully took advantage of, split toe or no. Starting on the lower, shorter course, we wandered through flora and fauna (coati) and eventually arrived to the smaller sets of waterfalls, seen from afar from Brazil, now up close and personal.

Walking further along the metal board walk we come across more and more waterfalls of increasing sizes. From the short course we could view the ‘Devil’s Throat’ from afar – which was still very impressive. Taking the obligatory selfies here and rainbow shots there – we move further on down the gangway until we reached the boat launch. We’re handed thick waterproof bags for our goods, and fat orange life jackets for our bodies. They were ominously soaked. We hobble on to the speed boat – maybe a 60 seater – and proceed to blast off across the water. 

Unlike the slow ‘Maid of the Mist’ in Niagara, this boat shoots through the water at speed – diving you straight under the waterfalls. First we entered a smaller waterfall – only getting briefly moist – however, the boat then rocketed toward the largest accessible falls. Diving straight under the torrential white spray, eyes unable to even open against the lashing water – we got spectacularly soaked. After two epic drenching sessions we returned to shore – squidging and squelching along the tracks. Fortunately it was a glorious, sunny day – and it wasn't too long before we were suitably dry.

After a quick lunch, dodging the voracious coati, we headed for the long course. This upper, longer course took you along the rest of the falls that we’d seen the previous day, winding along the aquatic-jungle path on a metal platform floating over the water. It’s easy to see why most people seem to enjoy the Argentinian side more – as there’s simply more to do and see. 

Finishing the upper course – we decided to race the pedestrian train to the last stop – the Devil’s Throat. The 2 km walk was warm, sunny, and full of butterflies and even a couple of monkeys – and we just barely missed beating the train to the station. However, as we now only had 1 hour before we were supposed to board our van back to Brazil – we really had to run. Literally diving and weaving through the crowds on what seemed like the never-ending platform – we finally emerged in the mouth of it: the Devil’s Throat. 

It’s simple to see why it got the name, as the falls was a horseshoe shape like the Niagara Falls (throat like?) – but was 10 times as torrential, with huge white plumes of water rocketing in to the sky. The noise and atmosphere was electric – hearing the roar of the falls at your fingertips. After soaking in the view (literally) we had to run back along the extensive platform and catch the train back to the entrance. All in all it was an incredible experience, probably more fulfilling than the Brazilian side – though both were amazing. Arriving back in Brazil with no troubles – we call it a night, ready for our early flight to Buenos Aires in the morning.

Day 12 - Sao Paulo to Foz do Iguacu, Brazilian Iguacu Falls

We awake fresh faced and ready for our morning flight. Opting once again for a taxi (this time as a time saver – rather than convenience) we arrive nice and early to Congonhas Sao Paulo Airport – a fairly small airport full of excited locals going on their holidays. Interestingly, the pre-checked-in line was about 5 times as long as the in-airport check-in line. The airport usher tried to show us to some check-in machines to join the long queue, but logic prevailed and we didn't move from the short queue. After going through the lax security, I was still, once again, man-handled (I'm sure the metal machine didn't even beep!).

We board the fully packed plane and have a short, cramped, hour-long flight to Foz do Iguacu – the eponymous city of the famous Iguacu Falls. Our hostel had arranged transport for us and we arrived at the accommodation swiftly, where the excellent concierge informed us of all the tourist and travel information we needed. We drop off our large packs and immediately head out to the bus stop to get to the Brazilian side of Iguacu Falls. A bus journey of around 1 hour brings us to the National Park of Iguacu Falls. We buy our tickets (just under £40 for the two) and jump on to the tourist bus that takes you to the falls. 

Exiting the bus, we were immediately surrounded by little fox-raccoon-ant eater things, which we later learned were coati, which were very friendly, fuzzy things – that unfortunately could get overzealous when surrounded or near to human food. Though we had many warnings, we had no incidents. Rach wouldn't let me keep one.

Leaving the bus stop – you’re immediately met with the sound of rushing water. Emerging through a wall of trees, suddenly the falls loom out in front of you. Iguacu Falls contains 275 individual water falls – which the Brazilian side shows off in all their immaculate glory. Walking along a single designated path, you’re in constant view of ever increasing numbers of waterfalls – eventually coming to a head on a floating platform in the middle of ‘the Devil’s Throat’ – the largest and most tempestuous waterfall of them all. It really is difficult to describe the sensation of being surrounded by such devastatingly beautiful nature. I have to admit that Iguacu Falls, if there were to be a competition, beats our beloved Niagara Falls. There I said it. Moving on.

After getting mildly wet from the spray of ‘Devil’s Throat’ – we take an elevator up to a panoramic platform offering even more stunning views of the falls. Calling it a day after a couple hours at the Brazilian side, we head home. We had a short wander through the town, grabbed a quick cafeteria style dinner in Foz, and called it a night, ready to begin the second leg of the falls the following morning.

Day 7 - Paraty, Jeep Tour & Waterfalls

Alas, a quiet sleep it was not. We thought we had escaped the noise of Rio – but it turns out even small little towns accrue their own fair share of nightly clamor. That said – it was still quieter than Rio – there’s something more peaceful to the roars of car engines than the racket of jackhammers. We awake to a small continental breakfast – and thankfully – strong, dark coffee. 

We pack our bags, ready for a day of swimming – and head to the tourist office. Outside the building was a large, raised, green jeep – and inside was a group of clearly (pale white) English speaking people. We attempted to board, however, were told This one isn’t for you. Hmm. A second jeep arrived a few minutes later and we were told this one was for us. Inside were two couples – both Portuguese and non-English speakers. Joining our crew was a guide – also non-English speaking - and the driver. Rach and I looked at each other as if there’d been a mistake, but we’re told – this is your jeep. In the end, there was no real difference as both groups joined together after the 30 minute ride. After driving round winding and dusty roads – we arrived at our first stop. We exit the jeep and start a trek through some jungle (we’d already put on our DEET spray!) until a few minutes later – we emerge on to a small pathway up a cliff. Hanging from some low hanging branches in front of us was a small group of wild marmosets – the guide produced a banana from her pocket and attracted one toward us – kawaii! We begin walking again and exit up the cliff and find ourselves staring out on to a group of beautiful, small waterfalls. We spend an hour here, swimming around the small natural pool and playing under the falls. This was my first chance at playing with my new waterproof GoPro – which seemed to work great!

We dry off in the sun, taking in the beautiful surroundings before heading back down the path – but, there was a guardian of the path we’d under estimated – a large, angry, brown spider. Standing directly in front of us with its fore-legs in the air in an aggressive attack position – I heroically attempted to shoo it from our way. The spider hissed and jumped toward me – narrowly missing my jugular with its fangs*. We ran forward, away from the vicious guardian – safe to live another day. We board the jeeps again and carry on to our next destination... *Some elements may be exaggerated.

The jeeps take us to a local sugar cane plantation which produces the Brazilian Cachaca liquor – as well as molasses and other sugary goodness. We are taught how the cachaca is produced (Sugar cane is ground, purified, distilled, then barreled in different woods – depending on the type of liquor), then are given samples of each type of cachaca they produce – cinnamon & clove, molasses-caramel, coffee liqueurs…etc. After the gently inebriating tour we are taken to a local restaurant to eat local food (re: salty meats and beans).

After a brief lunch – where we sat with a Canadian girl from the other jeep, who had been touring Brazil for three months – we headed to waterfalls 2 and 3. Waterfall 2 was a tall, slippery, boulder-like falls, with water smoothly covering all surfaces. This created a very slippery rock surface – which the locals used as a kind of water slide. Our guide told us it was too dangerous to attempt and took us away to waterfalls #3. Of course, I snuck back and went down the falls anyway! It wasn’t dangerous, but it was fun.

At waterfalls 3, there was another small pool we could swim in – as well as a cliff jumping spot. Once again we were told not to attempt this, as the water was not very deep. As I could see the bottom from where I was standing – I heeded her warning this time. There was however, more excitement to be had – beside the falls was a very worn, rickety wooden bridge. Swaying under the mere thought of crossing it, the bridge had clearly seen better days. Rach and I strapped on our adventure shoes and slowly climbed aboard the derelict bridge. As we crossed the water the bridge swayed and creaked – boards lifted and fell as we tread – with planks broken from their fastenings. Again, we emerged wholly undamaged, satisfied in crossing our first rope bridge.

We finished our tour with a second cachaca distillery (a bit tired of it at this point) and headed back home. We arrive in town to a raucous of noise – a woman's voice shouting over a loudspeaker. I jokingly say to Rachel – That sounds like Portuguese bingo. Lo, I was right – there were around 1,000 people in the town square, all playing bingo – stamping their little paper cards with each proclaimed letter and number. It was an odd sight to say the least – as we watched old men, women, children, and even the shop keepers taking part.

To cap the day off in the last remaining rays of light, we walked along the beach in low tide, squelching and squishing along the sodden sand. As the sun finally sets we had our dinner once again in the old town – enjoying our last night in the beautiful historic atmosphere. We saunter back to our room and await the oncoming dawn for our next bus – to Sao Paulo.