From Solitary to Surrounded - Sokendai

Shinjuku Hyatt Regency

My second night in Tokyo was just as relaxing as the first. Even though my king-size suite was smaller than most outside of Japan, the polish and detail was absolutely grand. I’ve actually bought Hyatt linens before, but these were something else. I was like a kitten rolling around a bed made of clouds. Anyway… My third day quickly rolls on, leading me to a local Shinjuku temple, where I get my first glimpse of monks (I was too shy to take a picture at this point) doing whatever it is that monks do on a Tuesday morning. I felt like I was intruding, but I’m sure they would have graciously invited me in to view their pious rituals.

Temple in Shinjuku

Sokendai introductions

The following week was a whirlwind of activity including, introductions, Japanese language lessons, scientific talks, and poster presentations. I won’t bore my readers with in-depth details, but 115 scientists from across the globe were gathered at the Graduate Centre at Sokendai. A beautiful campus, located on a peninsula south of Tokyo, Sokendai gave us all the opportunity to bond and network with like-minded individuals with a keen interest in research, and an even greater interest in adventure. We all made some lasting relationships during that week and I would go on to travel to several parts of Japan with many of those research fellows.

View from Sokendai with Mt. Fuji-san in the background

Tea ceremony during orientations

During our week at Sokendai we all stayed a weekend with a host family and I was fortunate to have stayed with a lovely couple who showed me around Yokohama and Kamakura. Yokohama was a cool little city south of Tokyo, where I got to try my first izakaya, essentially a Japanese bar restaurant that serves food tapas style. Serving all sorts of foods, grilled chicken skin, gizzard, octopus balls (takoyaki), German sausages (they all seem to serve German sausage…), salads, beef skewers (kushiyaki), various fish… there’s something for everyone. Then of course, there’s the drinks. Starting off with a few Japanese beers (Kirin, Sapporo, Asahi…), which are generally light and refreshing, we then moved on to shōchū, which is a distilled (in this case) rice liquor at roughly 25% ABV. It can be drank multiple ways, I had mine on the rocks, while my host had his chūhai, or mixed with a fruit juice and soda. Both were delicious. My host mother was on the chūhai all night, until I gave them an omiyage, or gift, for hosting me, which included a bottle of Jura Superstition whisky. Let’s just say waking up early for a day of touring Kamakura wasn’t easy.

The city of Kamakura is located about 50 km south west of Tokyo (closer to Sokendai) in the Kanagawa prefecture. Famous for establishing the shogunate, or rule by military dictator, Kamakura is known as the city of the samurai, who were warrior-nobles sworn to protect their lord. The kamakura period, 1185-1333, was the emergence of the shogunate – who controlled the samurai – using military might to control the populace. The kamakura period ended when confidence in the shogun failed and the emperor re-established imperial rule (for a short while). 

Visiting the Tsurugaoka Hachimangū Shinto shrine, I got another chance to practice my cleansing technique. This time, I nailed it, no inner purification for me. 

We were lucky enough to have arrived right when a traditional Japanese wedding ceremony was being held in the maiden pavilion.

Surrounding this building is the typical sake and beer offerings the temples make to their Gods.

Representing Brock University

Kamakura is also famous for its giant bronze daibutsu, or great Buddha, which was built during the kamakura period. Originally, a wooden Buddha was erected, however, seemingly like all things in Japan, it was destroyed in a storm. This bronze Buddha, built 10 years later in 1252, has stood the test of time, even withstanding a tsunami in 1498. The Buddha statue is hollow, allowing tourists to enter the venerable effigy with the following words of insight inscribed at the entrance: ‘Stranger, whosoever thou art and whatsoever be thy creed, when thou enterest this sanctuary remember thou treadest upon ground hallowed by the worship of ages. This is the Temple of Bhudda and the gate of the eternal, and should therefore be entered with reverence’. Inside the Buddha was, well, nothing but a large, extremely hot, metal shell. Still very cool.

Inside Diabutsu

We finished our weekend with a trip to the ramen museum, a kind of retro-styled indoor market for noodle-chefs to ship their wares. My goodness was it delicious. We each had two small ramen dishes from different parts of the country, but it was so darn filling I was full after the first, but they wanted to keep going! Two was my limit much to the chagrin of my host father. Another time he says.

Tonkatsu ramen

Sapporo miso ramen

We take the train back to Yokohama, where I notice that some of the cars are labelled ‘women only’ during certain times of the day. I was shocked at how progressive that was for Japan, a seemingly male-dominated country which holds on to archaic values of yesteryear. Needless to say I was pleased to see this progressive attitude.

Thanks for reading today’s story and hang tight, as next will be about my move into Kobe, where I will be based for the next 3 months. Cheers!

Tokyo - the Second

After a glorious, much needed rest from yesterday’s air travels and immediate jaunt through central Tokyo, walking a solid 12 km through Shinjuku and Shibuya, it was time to start my second day in Japan.

This time I had a plan, to hit up Asakusa and Sensō-ji temple, make my way to Akihabara (the famous anime, electronic, videogame, and all round subculture district of Tokyo), then finish up the day at the Imperial palace.

Like most of my mornings in Japan, this one started with a nice, ice cold coffee from a vending machine. Vending machines are everywhere in Japan (another stereotype that proves true). Even as I was desperately lost in the back alleys of residential Tokyo, I was never more than a block away from the friendly glow of the vending machine. It was a brilliant convenience that I wish more countries would adopt!

Arriving in Asakusa, a district in Taitō, I’m immediately met with a swarm of tourists, a sight I wasn’t yet familiar with. It didn’t spoil the atmosphere (it was a Monday, so it wasn’t that busy), but Tokyo had been so vacant yesterday it was a surprising sight. The Kaminarimon, a beautifully ornate ‘Thunder Gate’ protected by Raijin and Fujin, was built in 941 CE as the entrance to Sensō-ji. 

Wandering around the massive red lantern, you are immediately greeted by even more tourists in, surprisingly, a long alley known as Nakamise-dori full of Japanese novelty wares and souvenirs. Wandering past all the plastic waving ninja, geisha, and dragon toys you emerge upon the absolutely stunning Sensō-ji temple complex. 

As Tokyo’s oldest temple, founded in 645 CE, you can’t help but stare in awe at the Buddhist marvels. Unfortunately the majority of what stands has been rebuilt, as fires destroyed the complex numerous times.

After doing the touristy thing and making a temple wish (I was lucky and received a good/regular one… some are truly awful!), I moved on to the Dragon fountain to purify before entering the temple.

Unfortunately, as I was travelling on my own, I naively watched what I thought was a woman take a big swig of the fountain water, to… I don’t know, inner purify. Little did I know the ritual was to cleanse the lips or if you drink you drink a small amount and/or spit it out. This I did not do, I took a big ol’ gulp and let’s just say I was certainly inner purified.

Moving along. Before you enter the temple there is another chance to cleanse and pray, with a large cauldron-like structure burning incense. The temple’s inside was as ornate as the outer edifice, with gold glinting from every angle. The rituals in temples is to toss a few coins, bow, clap twice, pray, and bow again. By the end of my 3 months I was a temple pro, bow clap bowing like a champ. Not sure my wishes have come true yet, but I imagine it’s a slow process.

After hopping on the metro toward Akihabara, I noticed the unusual low hanging advertisements for the first, and not the last, time. I wouldn’t say things were really small in Japan but for a roughly 6 ft man, I did have to duck a few times. 

Stepping out into Akihabara you have to wander a little before you get into the mess of things. Then suddenly, BAM, all the buildings are covered in videogame characters, idols, and scantily clad cartoons, it was brilliant! I had no idea what was going on and I was loving it. Loud noises, traffic, explosions from the shops, and women in French maid costumes trying to get you in to restaurants (more on that later)… Akihabara is what the West thinks Japan looks like. Of course, this is one small district that in no way represents Japan as a whole, but man am I glad it exists… Don’t ever lose your quirk Japan!

I stop at a little lunch-joint in Akihabara where you put your money into a vending machine, you place your order by choosing a button, receive a ticket, you then give that ticket to the chef (sometimes a waitress), and within a few minutes you have hot and fresh food in front of you. This pork combination was £4... and it was delicious. Fried pork, steamed rice (of course!), miso soup, salad, mayonnaise, pickle… Oh my… I want it again. I was very surprised to see mayonnaise, but the Japanese surprisingly use loads of mayonnaise!

After that lunch, it was time to walk to the Imperial Palace. Long story short… I didn’t see it this day. I did however, have a lovely wander through the Imperial Gardens which had some beautiful Japanese flowers I’d never seen before.

After walking through the Imperial Chiyoda district, back through Shibuya and Shinjuku, it was time for the evening meal before retiring for the night. Tokyo tsukemen was available in a little noodle-joint just around the corner, so why not… when in Rome! This time with added semi-soft boiled eggs and pork slices, tonight’s was a real winner.

After over 21 km of walking this day, it was time for relaxing in the hotel with a Japanese beer or two, like this Grand Kirin. Hope you’ve enjoyed today’s sights. See you again for more Nippon adventures!

Tokyo - the Beginning

Konichiwa!

Welcome to the PilsnerPilgrim travel blog, where I will regale and captivate with stories and anecdotes of my worldly travels. Mine and Mrs Pilgrim's journeys around the globe have only just begun, so stay tuned for updates on past, present, and future adventures!

I’d like to begin with my recent jaunt in the land of the rising sun, Nippon itself, Japan. 

I’d always wanted to visit Japan, as it seemed the most exciting Asian country since a young age, growing up with TV shows like Tenchi Muyo, Cowboy Bebop, Trigun, Mushishi and eventually Samurai Champloo. Anime, a category of Japanese cartoon/animation which these programs fall under, always captivated my imagination in a way Western shows never could. Possessing a quality of storytelling and emotive force which transcended the language barrier (because it felt better watching in the native tongue), anime seems to have a profound impact on most of those who watch, or read the manga (more on the cultural impact in the later Japan posts). 

Japan of course was appealing for more than just anime, video games, and sub culture… it always seemed to emanate respect, civility, and quietude in its portrayals. Zen and Buddhism, as well as Shintoism, naturally having a large influence over the development of their culture, as well as their previously long standing closed-door policy, restricting the entrance of foreigners into their shores, leaving a mythical (and xenophobic) aura on the island.

Fast-forward a decade or so and I'm presented with the opportunity to apply for a JSPS fellowship – a Japanese government run program promoting international scientific cooperation. It’s an increasingly popular program, with growing competition from highly qualified and enthusiastic scientists from Britain, France, Germany, Canada, USA, and Sweden. It was an incredible experience and I highly encourage all who are eligible to apply:

http://www.jsps.go.jp/english/e-summer/

Lucky me, I was one of 10 British applicants to be awarded the fellowship, and I was on my way to Japan! After around 15 hours of flight time (with a stop in Frankfurt), I was greeted with a true Japanese welcome by Fuji-san poking gracefully through the clouds.

Mt. Fuji-san

Shinjuku Central Park

Tokyo. What can I say about Tokyo other than I immediately fell in love with this city. Beautiful buildings of all shapes and sizes, surrounded by lush, verdant parks strewn about the seemingly organised city blocks. 

Mode Gakuen Tower, Shinjuku

Even though Tokyo has many Skyscrapers, especially where I was staying in Shinjuku, I wouldn't classify it as a concrete jungle. There was life in those walls. Literally.

Depending on how you class ‘Tokyo’, it has over 38 million residents. Walking around the city during the day time you would never believe it, as often I would be a lone wanderer exploring both small hidden alleys and major cross roads. Serene in my solitude, I would amble along, peering into this shop or that noodle joint.  

Rush hour however, and the city explodes in to life… everything you've seen or read about Tokyo in rush hour is true. Thousands or even millions of perfectly dressed, slim, beautifully kempt beings emerged from their dwellings, mixing together like immeasurable worker ants with a purpose.

Students hanging around Shibuya

Workers who knowingly step on to a train, bursting at the seam with like-minded people, only to be poked and prodded, and shoved with a baton until every last little worker ant is in that train. Amazing. People complain about trains being busy here if your shoulders brush.

I end my first night in Tokyo with traditional Tokyo style Tsukemen (pronounced skay-men), which were phenomenal. At first, I was surprised they forgot to add the noodles to my ramen (they didn’t speak English to me)! But then they kindly brought over this ‘how to eat’ card (which they must find hilarious). Dipping cold, thick noodles into the hot, rich sauce was such a surprisingly delicious experience, I had it as my first and last meal in Japan.

 

Tokyo Tsukemen

I hope you’ve enjoyed today’s story. Stay tuned for more adventures in Japan!