Tokyo - the Beginning

Konichiwa!

Welcome to the PilsnerPilgrim travel blog, where I will regale and captivate with stories and anecdotes of my worldly travels. Mine and Mrs Pilgrim's journeys around the globe have only just begun, so stay tuned for updates on past, present, and future adventures!

I’d like to begin with my recent jaunt in the land of the rising sun, Nippon itself, Japan. 

I’d always wanted to visit Japan, as it seemed the most exciting Asian country since a young age, growing up with TV shows like Tenchi Muyo, Cowboy Bebop, Trigun, Mushishi and eventually Samurai Champloo. Anime, a category of Japanese cartoon/animation which these programs fall under, always captivated my imagination in a way Western shows never could. Possessing a quality of storytelling and emotive force which transcended the language barrier (because it felt better watching in the native tongue), anime seems to have a profound impact on most of those who watch, or read the manga (more on the cultural impact in the later Japan posts). 

Japan of course was appealing for more than just anime, video games, and sub culture… it always seemed to emanate respect, civility, and quietude in its portrayals. Zen and Buddhism, as well as Shintoism, naturally having a large influence over the development of their culture, as well as their previously long standing closed-door policy, restricting the entrance of foreigners into their shores, leaving a mythical (and xenophobic) aura on the island.

Fast-forward a decade or so and I'm presented with the opportunity to apply for a JSPS fellowship – a Japanese government run program promoting international scientific cooperation. It’s an increasingly popular program, with growing competition from highly qualified and enthusiastic scientists from Britain, France, Germany, Canada, USA, and Sweden. It was an incredible experience and I highly encourage all who are eligible to apply:

http://www.jsps.go.jp/english/e-summer/

Lucky me, I was one of 10 British applicants to be awarded the fellowship, and I was on my way to Japan! After around 15 hours of flight time (with a stop in Frankfurt), I was greeted with a true Japanese welcome by Fuji-san poking gracefully through the clouds.

Mt. Fuji-san

Shinjuku Central Park

Tokyo. What can I say about Tokyo other than I immediately fell in love with this city. Beautiful buildings of all shapes and sizes, surrounded by lush, verdant parks strewn about the seemingly organised city blocks. 

Mode Gakuen Tower, Shinjuku

Even though Tokyo has many Skyscrapers, especially where I was staying in Shinjuku, I wouldn't classify it as a concrete jungle. There was life in those walls. Literally.

Depending on how you class ‘Tokyo’, it has over 38 million residents. Walking around the city during the day time you would never believe it, as often I would be a lone wanderer exploring both small hidden alleys and major cross roads. Serene in my solitude, I would amble along, peering into this shop or that noodle joint.  

Rush hour however, and the city explodes in to life… everything you've seen or read about Tokyo in rush hour is true. Thousands or even millions of perfectly dressed, slim, beautifully kempt beings emerged from their dwellings, mixing together like immeasurable worker ants with a purpose.

Students hanging around Shibuya

Workers who knowingly step on to a train, bursting at the seam with like-minded people, only to be poked and prodded, and shoved with a baton until every last little worker ant is in that train. Amazing. People complain about trains being busy here if your shoulders brush.

I end my first night in Tokyo with traditional Tokyo style Tsukemen (pronounced skay-men), which were phenomenal. At first, I was surprised they forgot to add the noodles to my ramen (they didn’t speak English to me)! But then they kindly brought over this ‘how to eat’ card (which they must find hilarious). Dipping cold, thick noodles into the hot, rich sauce was such a surprisingly delicious experience, I had it as my first and last meal in Japan.

 

Tokyo Tsukemen

I hope you’ve enjoyed today’s story. Stay tuned for more adventures in Japan!