Hiroshima - a Sombre and Beautiful City

After visiting the small island of Itsukushima (Miyajima) in Hiroshima Bay, it was time to visit the namesake city – Hiroshima.

Hiroshima is known most notably for being the first city targeted and destroyed by a nuclear weapon. However, Hiroshima is a longstanding settlement dating back to 1589 CE.

We stayed in a very central location, overlooking a beautiful park surrounding Hiroshima Castle. The ‘sights’ in Hiroshima are all centrally situated and within walking distance of each other.

Starting our tour at Hiroshima Castle, founded in 1593 CE, we observe a small Castle (compared to Himeji Castle) that was a reconstruction of the original, rebuilt in 1958. The original castle was destroyed in the August 6, 1945 atomic bombing of Hiroshima. A beautiful wooden castle that holds a ‘Hiroshima museum’ within – it offered great insights into the foundation of the city and the aftermath of the War. Unfortunately we weren’t allowed photographs inside, but I’d recommend everyone to visit this site to gain a greater insight into the history of Hiroshima.

Our next stop is the famous Hiroshima Peace Memorial – Genbaku Dome – or the Atomic Bomb Dome. The structure is a remnant – and reminder – of the destruction of the atomic bomb, which killed 70,000 people instantly and another 70,000 through radioactive fallout.

Across the river from the Dome is the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, which houses several structures dedicated to the victims of the attack. Within the park is the Hall of Remembrance, the Atomic Bomb Memorial Mound, the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, the Memorial Cenotaph, the Peace Flame, and many more monuments in honour of the deceased.

Hiroshima Cenotaph

The Children’s Memorial honours the children who were affected by the radiation. In honour of Sadako Sasaki – a two year old who was affected by the atomic bomb ‘Little Boy’ who later spent her time in hospital folding paper cranes – and all the children affected by the bomb, this memorial really showed the true impact such an act of aggression causes. The Japanese legend states anyone who folds 1,000 paper cranes will be granted a wish – Sadako managed to fold 1,400 cranes, presumably wishing that such an act of atrocity will never happen again. She died in 1955, at the age of 12.

Hiroshima today is a thriving city of over 1,000,000 inhabitants, with a rich, bustling down town sector just blocks away from this stark reminder of the devastation of 1945. A truly dynamic city with a history that will forever act to remind us that war is never the answer.

Miyajima - my Favourite

Our next adventure brought us to the picturesque island of Itsukushima, off the coast of Hiroshima. Itsukushima, known colloquially as Miyajima, is known as the “island where People and Gods live together”. Boasting numerous temples of varied sizes and belief systems, Miyajima is known most notably for Itsukushima shrine and the Great Torii. Miyajima is also host to a primeval forest which sprawls across Mount Misen, a popular mountain which offers several hiking routes with various animal and flora sightseeing paths.

Our journey starts with a ferry ride across Hiroshima Bay. A short trip which quickly brings the island, and the famous Torii, in to view. Upon disembarking you have many options of temples to visit, and like many, we chose to visit Itsukushima shrine and the Floating Torii. Itsukushima jinja, a Shinto shrine, was initially built in the 6^th century CE, however, the ‘floating’ design was established much later, in 1168 CE. This floating architecture was utilised to create a purity, separating holy structures from the approach of pious pilgrims. Much like Torii gates found on land, those who approach the shrine would steer their boats through the Floating Torii as a kind of blessing.

Itsukushima shrine

Today you can walk through most of Itsukushima shrine, including a small prayer temple, and even approach the Floating Torii when the tide moves out.

After a standard lunch of ramen and tamago-don(buri), we set out to see the many Gods and temples spread throughout the island.

Daishoin temple, located at the foot of Mt. Misen, is a Shingon Buddhist temple in-charge of the Buddhist priests across Miyajima. 

Found within Daishoin is the Henjokutsu Cave – a large cavern which houses icons of the 88 Buddhist temples from the Shikoku Buddhist pilgrimage. Entering this cave endows one with the same blessings as if one completed the entire pilgrimage.

Jizo Bosatsu statues – small stone effigies of Buddhist monks - are scattered around the temples, and are used by parents who have lost a child. The statues are taken care of by parents and are often blessed with children’s bibs and hats.

Jizo Bosatsu

Jizo Bosatsu

Tengu

Daruma, a caricaturised statue of Bodhidharma – the founder of Zen Buddhism – is a symbol of perseverance and good luck.

Daruma

Tanuki priest statue – a representation of the Asian racoon dog – is a supernatural animal, master of disguise, which represents a jolly and mischievous symbolism, governing all things in nature.

 

Tanuki

Shamoji shrine – a shrine to the wooden rice spoon, which was purportedly invented on the island of Miyajima.

Shamoji

Tsunami warnings

After a thorough visit through the many shrines and temples of Itsukushima, we decide to climb Mt. Misen! There are 3 hiking trails up Misen – we chose the ‘Daisho trail’ which apparently offers the most scenic views. On a sweltering 34°C afternoon with the sun blazing straight down without the hindrance of a single cloud – it was a hot, sweaty climb. But it was absolutely stunning.

We begin the ascent

Never ending stairs

Up and up we go, through beautiful verdant countryside

Floating Torii at low tide

Wild deer roam freely on Miyajima

Climbing higher

I'm sure this was in Indiana Jones

Reaching the summit

After about 2 hours of hiking we reach the summit with a sigh of cool relief.

Atop the mountain is an eternal flame, Kiezu no Hi, which was lit 1200 years ago by the priest Kobo Daishi – and is used today as the pilot light for the “Flame of Peace” in the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park.

Further up from the flame is an observation deck, which offered stunning views of Miyajima and Hiroshima Bay.

Luckily, we caught the very last ropeway carriage down – otherwise we would have had a less than stunning walk back down the mountain in the dark.

We were fortunate to have visited Miyajima the weekend of the Kangen-sai festival. Originating from the 12^th century, the Kangen-sai festival celebrates ‘Kangen’ music – songs played on traditional string instruments, with flutes and drums, on boats circling the Miyajima shrines.

Hostesses

We light paper lanterns and line along the shore to signal the approaching boats. 

We are serenaded by ethereal music dancing across the still waters as hundreds of lantern holders sway to the melody. It was a confusing (we didn’t really know what was going on) but beautiful experience.

Kangen-sai

Finally, we call it a night at our ryokan – traditional Japanese inn – where, during the day while you’re out, the hotel staff transform your ‘living room’ into the bedroom.

Ryokan

Tune in to our next city adventure – where we take in the sombre sights of Hiroshima!

Fukuoka full-on and Beautiful Beppu

After an amazing weekend touring the historical Kyoto and neighbouring ancient city of Nara, it was time for a shift in gears. Next on the docket was a more relaxing, pleasure visit to the onsen city of Beppu and the capital of Kyushu island, Fukuoka.

Taking a bullet train from Shin-Kobe, I arrive in Fukuoka 2 ½ hours and 600 km later. Fukuoka, the capital city of the southern island Kyushu, is a sprawling sea-side metropolis of around 1.5 million people.

We hop on some local buses and make our way to Fukuoka tower, a beautiful mirrored building standing 234 m tall. The views of Fukuoka and surrounding areas the tower offered were stunning.

Looking up the tower

View from Fukuoka tower

After visiting the tower we head for some local cuisine. Fukuoka, famous for Hakata ramen named after the Hakata district, offered a soup which was a strong, rich tonkotsu (pork bone broth), with pickled ginger, garlic, sesame seeds, pork slices, and soft boiled eggs. It was amazing, and definitely lived up to the hype.

Hakata ramen

Fukuoka, aside from tall towers and delicious soups, is a thriving city full of life. The Hakata district from 6am to 6am is non-stop, with restaurants, bars, clubs, and famously, yatai, Japanese food stalls, rammed with business men and party goers alike.

After another impossibly late night (Japan never seems to sleep), it was time to recover in the hot seaside spa town of Beppu. A small city built between the sea and the lush mountains, Beppu is famous for natural geothermal hot spots known as the ‘eight hells (jigoku) of Beppu’, as well as the natural hot springs used as onsen, Japanese water baths.

We first hit up the Beppu ‘hells’ – Jigoku -  which are natural hot springs, each with a unique feature. Surrounding, and between, each hell were beautiful ponds, gardens, and rolling hillsides which made Beppu an absolutely picturesque location.

The Umi Jigoku - ‘Sea Hell’ - was a boiling pond with a beautiful blue colour and a strong sulphur odour, which locals used to use to boil and flavour eggs.

Oniishibozu Jigoku – ‘Shaved Monks Head Hell’ – was a small hell full of milky calcareous pits, boiling away producing bubbles that looks like the top of a monks head… apparently.

Chinoike Jigoku – ‘Blood Pond Hell’ – was a large pool with a rich red/brown colour, and was probably the most famous and anticipated hells. In honesty, in person the pond wasn’t blood red, but it was still a beautiful natural formation worth visiting.

To cap off our visit of Beppu we went to an outdoor natural spring onsen in the mountains. Of course, as onsens are fully nude baths, no pictures were allowed! Surrounding our onsen however, were onsen of olden day – small thatched huts placed over hot springs to create a sauna-like building. Unfortunately they weren’t for use anymore, but it was interesting seeing the progression to the modern onsen model.

After an hour soak in the natural, hot, milky-green waters, we say farewell to Beppu, after a truly relaxing visit.

Bamboo groves

Next on our Japanese adventure, one of my favourite places in Japan – the stunning island of Miyajima!