Miyajima - my Favourite

Our next adventure brought us to the picturesque island of Itsukushima, off the coast of Hiroshima. Itsukushima, known colloquially as Miyajima, is known as the “island where People and Gods live together”. Boasting numerous temples of varied sizes and belief systems, Miyajima is known most notably for Itsukushima shrine and the Great Torii. Miyajima is also host to a primeval forest which sprawls across Mount Misen, a popular mountain which offers several hiking routes with various animal and flora sightseeing paths.

Our journey starts with a ferry ride across Hiroshima Bay. A short trip which quickly brings the island, and the famous Torii, in to view. Upon disembarking you have many options of temples to visit, and like many, we chose to visit Itsukushima shrine and the Floating Torii. Itsukushima jinja, a Shinto shrine, was initially built in the 6^th century CE, however, the ‘floating’ design was established much later, in 1168 CE. This floating architecture was utilised to create a purity, separating holy structures from the approach of pious pilgrims. Much like Torii gates found on land, those who approach the shrine would steer their boats through the Floating Torii as a kind of blessing.

Itsukushima shrine

Today you can walk through most of Itsukushima shrine, including a small prayer temple, and even approach the Floating Torii when the tide moves out.

After a standard lunch of ramen and tamago-don(buri), we set out to see the many Gods and temples spread throughout the island.

Daishoin temple, located at the foot of Mt. Misen, is a Shingon Buddhist temple in-charge of the Buddhist priests across Miyajima. 

Found within Daishoin is the Henjokutsu Cave – a large cavern which houses icons of the 88 Buddhist temples from the Shikoku Buddhist pilgrimage. Entering this cave endows one with the same blessings as if one completed the entire pilgrimage.

Jizo Bosatsu statues – small stone effigies of Buddhist monks - are scattered around the temples, and are used by parents who have lost a child. The statues are taken care of by parents and are often blessed with children’s bibs and hats.

Jizo Bosatsu

Jizo Bosatsu

Tengu

Daruma, a caricaturised statue of Bodhidharma – the founder of Zen Buddhism – is a symbol of perseverance and good luck.

Daruma

Tanuki priest statue – a representation of the Asian racoon dog – is a supernatural animal, master of disguise, which represents a jolly and mischievous symbolism, governing all things in nature.

 

Tanuki

Shamoji shrine – a shrine to the wooden rice spoon, which was purportedly invented on the island of Miyajima.

Shamoji

Tsunami warnings

After a thorough visit through the many shrines and temples of Itsukushima, we decide to climb Mt. Misen! There are 3 hiking trails up Misen – we chose the ‘Daisho trail’ which apparently offers the most scenic views. On a sweltering 34°C afternoon with the sun blazing straight down without the hindrance of a single cloud – it was a hot, sweaty climb. But it was absolutely stunning.

We begin the ascent

Never ending stairs

Up and up we go, through beautiful verdant countryside

Floating Torii at low tide

Wild deer roam freely on Miyajima

Climbing higher

I'm sure this was in Indiana Jones

Reaching the summit

After about 2 hours of hiking we reach the summit with a sigh of cool relief.

Atop the mountain is an eternal flame, Kiezu no Hi, which was lit 1200 years ago by the priest Kobo Daishi – and is used today as the pilot light for the “Flame of Peace” in the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park.

Further up from the flame is an observation deck, which offered stunning views of Miyajima and Hiroshima Bay.

Luckily, we caught the very last ropeway carriage down – otherwise we would have had a less than stunning walk back down the mountain in the dark.

We were fortunate to have visited Miyajima the weekend of the Kangen-sai festival. Originating from the 12^th century, the Kangen-sai festival celebrates ‘Kangen’ music – songs played on traditional string instruments, with flutes and drums, on boats circling the Miyajima shrines.

Hostesses

We light paper lanterns and line along the shore to signal the approaching boats. 

We are serenaded by ethereal music dancing across the still waters as hundreds of lantern holders sway to the melody. It was a confusing (we didn’t really know what was going on) but beautiful experience.

Kangen-sai

Finally, we call it a night at our ryokan – traditional Japanese inn – where, during the day while you’re out, the hotel staff transform your ‘living room’ into the bedroom.

Ryokan

Tune in to our next city adventure – where we take in the sombre sights of Hiroshima!