We wake very early on our last day in Mendoza to catch the
first bus to Santiago. Packing our bags and happily saying goodbye to this
hostel, we emerge into the dimly lit streets and head to the bus terminal. The
streets are barren save a few early risers heading to work. After about a half
hour walk – our big packs on our back – we reach the terminal, filled with
bleary eyed travellers and, appropriately, coffee vendors.
The bus arrives and we grab our large, comfy seats. The ride
from Mendoza to Santiago is a beautiful one, traipsing through the winding
roads of the Argentinian Andes. Rising gently from lush green valleys into the
snow-capped peaks, we reach the Argentina – Chile border, notorious for very,
very slow service. We were fortunate it only took us an hour and a half, though
the snow did start to surround us as we waited out the security checks. We were
told the crossing often takes 6+ hours and we were indeed fortunate to cross at
all, as the border was shut the day before due to heavy snow fall.
We make it through security with little difficulty and enjoy
the ride as we pass now through the Chilean Andes, down into similar scenes –
brown, desert like hills, then finally into lush green valleys.
Santiago is a very large city and like many large cities in
South America, the outskirts are home to the ‘favela’-like houses, that is –
homes made from scrap metal and other found objects, housing the poorest of the
city. As we drive further in to Santiago we’re met with more development,
high-rises and skyscrapers lining the streets. The bus terminal is in a very
‘local’ part of the city – and the apartment we’d rented was about an hour walk
into the heart of downtown. We saddle up and begin our walk. The streets in
this area are filled with street vendors and sellers of various bits and bobs,
barbecued foods, and empanadas. As we walk through the vendors, we begin to
become teary eyed. The air burned our lungs. Suddenly we’re concerned we booked
a week’s stay in a heavily polluted city! Tears rolling down our cheeks, our
lips burning – we walk faster to get away, if we could, from the mysterious noxious
substance. It wasn’t until the following day that we learned there was a
protest near the bus terminal that got out of hand and the police spread tear gas
onto the populace. We just happened to be collateral damage!
As we wandered away from the invisible antagonist our eyes
eventually became clear and our tongues stopped burning. A short, more
enjoyable, walk later and we arrive into the ‘Bellas Artes’ area of downtown
Santiago. This was much nicer. Cafes and restaurants littered the beautiful
streets, surrounding parks, churches, and museums. Feeling relieved that this
area had no poison air – we arrived to our apartment. A massive 20 story
building standing firmly in the centre of the area, towering over the
surrounding shops and bars. We hesitantly get into the elevator – dubious after
our Rio free fall, and head to the 7th floor. We arrive with no
incidents (phew!) and open our door to find the apartment was a beautiful 3 bed
mezzanine with more space than we possibly needed. Dropping our bags off, we
head out the door and begin to explore our local area. We decide on an Indian
restaurant for dinner – our first real non-South American food since we arrived
– and it was amazing. Capping the night off with a local craft brew (Quimera
Imperial Stout – very nice), we head to our room and call it a night.
