Day 6 - Rio to Paraty

Today we say Goodbye to Rio and make a journey along the Southern Brazilian coast to the small colonial town of Paraty. Taking a taxi to Novo Rio – the bus terminal – we buy our tickets for the next available bus to Paraty. We’d researched the buses online – and seen that they departed every hour – however, Tip - pre-booking buses online (or going to the station) at least the night before will ensure your seats, as the buses are surprisingly very busy. We board our bus – with assigned seating – and someone is sitting in our seats. It’s always awkward telling people to move – even more so when you don’t speak the language and they’re convinced it’s their seat! We eventually get seated, and revel in the deep, soft, well cushioned seats. The buses here put Greyhound and Megabus to shame!

Our ride is around 6 hours (with stops and traffic) to Paraty. Arriving in the early afternoon, we saunter around the old cobbled streets and search for our accommodation. We have a quaint hostel (more like 2* hotel) located 2 minutes from the bus station and about 30 seconds from the old quarter. In our room was a brochure for a local tour operator, offering city tours that night. We hop on over (it’s a small town) and book our tickets for the evening, as well as a jeep jungle tour for tomorrow. As the jungle tour takes you to waterfalls to swim under – it was time for me to find a bathing suit. Intriguingly all the shops sold swim trunks with no mesh lining! It wasn’t until I realised the shorts are essentially male sarongs (modesty converings) and I’d have to take the plunge and buy some swimming booty shorts. To be quite honest – I look rad in my new trunks.

With new swimming gear in hand, it was time to do the city tour. We arrive back at the tourist shop and are greeted by an elderly man who informs us the tour will take place in both English and Portuguese. We begin our tour of the old quarter with 3 Portuguese tourists – and as we wander the labyrinthine streets, certain spots are pointed out in English then in Portuguese – with seemingly more conversation in the latter than the former. It was an enjoyable tour – highlighting the origins of the town [Paraty was a port town founded on the gold and diamond trades, controlled by wealthy ‘Masons’ and was heavily stratified by class and race. Thousands of slaves passed through the town – and lived in certain districts away from the rich and whites]. Overall it was an informative tour and Paraty turned out to be a lovely, quirky little town. We finish our tour tasting some local cachaca (sugar cane liquor) – which an overly jubilant Portuguese man spilled over my leg in excitement at showing off a local delicacy. We end our night at a beautiful, candle-lit restaurant in old town and conclude with a lovely, warm walk back to our room for a nice, quiet, relaxing sleep. Or so we thought. 

Day 5 - Rio, Copacabana, Ipanema, & Jardim Botanico

Good morning Rio! What shall we do today? Well, it’s been a very busy few days – so why not have a more relaxing day – wandering through Rio’s botanical gardens. We begin our trek down the lengthy Copacabana beach – crossing over to Ipanema beach, a thinner but oddly busier beach. Gently strolling down the soft sands and warm sidewalks we decided to ‘take our first coconut’. For the small sum of R$5 (about £1 at time of writing), the vendor chops open a fresh, green, coconut with a machete, sticking in a straw for your oral enjoyment. Very refreshing, and oddly satisfying – green coconut water/juice is gently flavoured and about half as sweet as a soft drink. Lolling along the sandy causeway, sipping on coconut, you couldn’t help but feel at peace. Rio is a very clean (very little litter) but very dirty (soot/sand/?) city – I often found myself rubbing mystery particles out of my eyes – so the gentle breeze, hot sun, and clean coconut combination, alongside the crystal clear water, was a nice change.

Passing by Ipanema beach on to Leblon beach (much quieter), we grew closer to the gardens. The botanical gardens (about 8km from where we started) was immediately a place of solace from the bustle of the Rio streets. Lush, green plants from all over the world encapsulate quite a large park – playing host to hundreds of flower and bird species. We enjoyed a walk through an Orchid nursery – as well as an area flaunting dozens of cactus species of every shape and size. The highlight of the gardens was watching tiny little humming birds darting around, presumably looking for their next meal.

We finished our walk in the gardens through a section on worldly medicinal plants (all signs in Portuguese unfortunately) and began our long trek home. Stopping for dinner in a little local pub(?) eating our last Rio meal – refreshing our weary feet – we reflect on our days in Rio. We both thoroughly enjoyed Rio – though – we both expected more colour. It’s a very grey city – which just didn’t gel with our preconceptions of what Rio (and our first taste of Latin America) would be like. We must have gone in expecting 24/7 Carnivale – and although we didn’t get it, still enjoyed the city. Next on the docket – is the small colonial town of Paraty (pronounced Pa-ra-chee). Stay tuned!